Do I need to buy a new chain?

So, I've ridden my bike for nearly 2 seasons (late spring, all of summer and dry autumn days) with the original chain, the previous owned did next to 0 miles on this chain. The bike has never seen wet or grime, always kept the chain clean and lubed, also.

Each ride I do 25-45 miles, 3-4 days a week.

I purchased a chain measuring tool, but I think I may have purchased the wrong tool? I've attached a photo of what it looks like when the chain tool is placed on the chain, but I think the tool itself is too thick at the point to properly sit in the chain, or is this how the tool is used?

I've always either changed a bike or changed a chain when putting on new components, but this is my first bike in a long time I've kept, and the components are fairly expensive Campag, so I'd rather not needlessly wear out the chainring and cassette due to a worn chain.

Any help please!? Thanks

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Flip it over to the .75

Same issue?

...I think?

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If you take the other end out will that go in all the way?

Nope, I believe it's too chunky

I can get it to push through 1-2mm but I have to really push it, which kind of gives me an inaccurate reading?

Looks to me like your chain isn't yet worn, therefore the tool doesn't slot in.

Unless I'm misunderstanding and you mean the chain too is too thick to fit in - but that doesn't make sense as one end of it has gone in

Yup, exactly what I mean actually! I do think the chain tool is too thick, but I have nothing to compare is to and to know whether it's right

How about taking the chain off the chainring (so it becomes slack), forming a u-shape with the chain, and then trying to insert each end of the chain checker tool (one end at a time) into one of the chain links?

That should allow you to be sure that it's too thick

Once the .75 markers drops in to the link, then it’s time to change. Unless you want to wait until the 1.0 marker, but shifting will probably be shit

Chain checkers like that aren't super accurate anyway, because they have to include a fudge factor for roller slop.

To measure actual elongation, hold the chain tight with the crank and hold a ruler with the 0 at the centre of a pin, and look at 254mm. How far away from 254mm is the next pin? Work out how many more percent it is, say 255.5/254 = 100.59%.

If it's more than half a percent longer, change the chain. If it's more than 0.75% longer, you probably need a new cassette too. If you let it get too far, it'll then start to chew up your rings.

Where did you get the tool and how much was it?

eBay, £3.50

I have the same one, it works as intended like your pictures. microdosed and kimmo are spot on.

Ok, I think I'll change it out of precaution.

Can I run any 11 speed chain on this? It's campag Chorus.

Yes.

I do as Kimmo writes but in inches. Put a ruler on it and you'll see each pin lines up with an inch mark. A worn chain might have a pin 1/16 over at the 12" mark, and 1/8 over if it's very worn.

but in inches

That's where my way came from but I made it 10"and metric, since it's easier if you don't need quite that much length, and I figured a percentage is a bit more useful; relatable to more sources of advice on the matter. Or maybe I was just lacking an imperial ruler at the time

Thanks for replies everyone.

I changed the chain out of precaution after learning the chainrings on my bike were over 100 quid each.

I put on a DuraAce chain, cleaned with GT85 and then put on some quality dry lube, it rides great.