Home DIY

Nice. I have stripped and painted wrought iron gates in the past (a bit bigger than that) and it was soul destroying.

I'd be tempted to get it media blasted and coated..

Anyone interested in a Paslode IM350 first fix cordless nailgun, and/ or a Paslode IM65 cordless second fix nailgun?

Took me a couple of hours with a wire brush on a drill followed by a pressure wash to get a similar sized gate ready for paint.

Did consider dipping it but it takes a similar time to get it to the dippers and back as it took to do the job myself manually.

@almac68 about a month ago

Ripped carpet out, floorboards look okay, couple need replacing then plan to sand them, along with the stairs.

The edge of the stairs are painted white, perhaps used to have some sort of runner down the middle.

What are the proper precautions I need to take when using a hired sander? Assuming the white paint could contain lead etc.

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Fun. Hope you’re painting it yellow!

First coat of oil on an iroko top I’ve made for the vanity going in the new bathroom.

Planed, joined, shaped, routed, sanded and now oiled by me.

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What are the proper precautions I need to take when using a hired sander?

Buy a decent mask. They're not expensive.

Double layer of plastic sheeting over every doorway there is, then two extra for luck. If someone wouldn't carry out a hit in your place you haven't used enough.

yes, I have one of these already. Assume that is suitable for sanding potential lead paint? and the plastic sheeting will keep everything contained within the area I suppose, then wet wipe everything and then hoover?

Overly cautious im sure but would rather do it properly

Yeah if it’s got the right filters on, if your wanting to be super careful I’d get one of they paint suits that goes over your head too and you can remove outside once done

I realise I wasn't that specific... Basically the wood dust is very fine and will get absolutely everywhere. So you're trying to create air locks to limit how far it gets across the house, and stop it settling on soft furnishings.

It will still manage to spread, but it's a lot easier to be wiping down surfaces in the adjacent rooms than hoovering and washing the clothes you left out in your bedroom upstairs.

Other points:

• go over the floor systematically with a hammer and punch. Exposed nails will rip the belt
  
• get way more belts and discs than you think - hire shops normally refund the ones you bring back
  
• change the bag frequently. Cleaning a split bag is no fun
  
• if you have a nice vacuum grab a sacrifical one from FBM.
  

What's going on with the crazing here? It's in a few spots on a couple of the doors I painted.

It's acrilyic primer painted on sanded down and keyed old paint.

Is that just the nature of the beast and it doesn't matter because I'll do another coat? Anything I should be worried about which I should take remedial action on?

I went acrylic, because I need something hard wearing and one of the doors will be for a bathroom.

Factors that may have influenced:

• last coat going on late in the evening (a few weeks ago)
  
• stored in an outdoor shed that would have probably got quite hot at times
  
• possibly applied a bit thickly as I was rushing.
  

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Probably a combination of paint too thick and surface not keyed entirely. Looks like you have some bleed through from knotting on the low right side of that photo. To avoid that you would need to use cover stain or b.i.n. Aqua from Zinnser (or similar from a different manufacturer). Cover Stain is oil based and B.I.N. Aqua is expensive though.

I've started stripping the paper and blown plaster out of our bedroom in prep for a plasterer to come in, but the wood chip ceiling paper is going to end me.

The bit of blown ceiling plaster I've taken back to the laths has a lot of dust and soot so I don't think I want to take the whole ceiling down.

Should I just tell the plasterer to overboard and not worry about spending the time/inhaling the dust?

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I used that mask and it was fine with iroku hardwood dust which evidently can do nasty things to you.
If you have any more DIY to do then invest in one of those titan wet/dry vacuums.
That and a small prybar were the 2 essentials for a home renovation that I couldn’t have done without.
(Make that 3 with a SDS drill)

Cheers.

What you're seeing is wood filler underneath as I'd already started sanding back when I thought I should ask here.

Thickness sounds like it might be it. So the solution I guess is to make sure I do thinner layers for the next two coats.

Frustratingly in the good light I've also spotted some poor smoothing of the filler, so need to fill and paint that. Is there a easy mix paint type filler rather than a proper wood filler? Kind of thinking of something like high build primer spray that you'd used for vehicle bodywork.

personally, yes, we have done this in rooms and it helps retain a bit of noise attenuation performance too

Having pulled down a lath ceiling, I wouldn't do it again (unless I was paying someone else to do it) definitely overboard.

Don't plant ivy, it kills walls and takes over. Use Virginia creeper instead. Looks lovely in autumn with red leaves, too.

As others have mentioned: keep it for sound reasons unless your ceiling height is a huge concern.

I'd square off that hole so it can be easily double-boarded in that area, otherwise the sound performance will be worse than before (a single sheet of plasterboard will transfer more sound than the old laths/plaster).

Not aware of anything like a high build auto primer. You can use a fine filler (Toupret do one) but it can cause some issues.

Anyone out there making nice looking doorbell chimes? We have a wired one that is old and fucked (wired in) and want to replace it.

edit - something wooden/metal - not plastic.

What issues does fine filler cause?

Poor adhesion due to it being overly thin or dusty

I found it great for feathering out and getting a good edge but it became really smooth and had a few adhesion issues with even lo-tac tape pulling the paint off, I should have used some zinneser on those areas first.
will still use fine filler but do the above next time!