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Normally the numbers from any proper brand (ie, not Ali Express) are pretty trustworthy.
200m is normally considered “proper” diver, there’s lots around. Will cope with whatever diving or swimming you’re going to do (so, probably, will 50 or 100m but you won’t get a screw down crown)300m is up into the level of professional deep diving. They’re really a tool more than a watch.
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ie, not Ali Express
So, amazingly… CSB alert:
That Italian-brand, Swiss-made 2824-2 Stendardo diver had an amazing slim case. Case/crown/etc got damaged. Replaced with a chunkier Explorer case from AliExpress.
So, the TL/DR is, once I rebuilt it we pressure tested it at the watch shop and amazingly it held pressure fine and the machine said “OK”.
I expected it to fail, but the Explorer style case with screwdown crown was good.
Thanks all the for suggestions. Specifically 300 because I read somewhere that 200m was ok for shallow diving (I'm not a diver) but 'proper' dive watches were 300m. Maybe this is rubbish though. It's a bday/finishing PhD present for my gf. She actualluy dives, so I figured 300 would be better.