Home DIY

hmm, , sure the door could be painted, think I'd be confident of not being transparent - it's not a wax off stain

Linseed oil paint might look good on this.
Wash it. Sand it.

Treat the water damage as required. Sand again. Sand some more. Paint as required with sanding between coats as needed.

Thanks for the ideas.
TBH I think It’ll look shit yellow, but Liz is adamant it’ll look fab. I want to just strip it and oil it. I think I’ll sand it right back, bleach any black bits and then wet it to see how it looks and try to convince Liz it look great. Then boiled linseed it.

@Hovis I used the tongue tite screws when replacing an entire ground floor of flooring. You get free bits with each pack, but they don’t last long. I just got some more bits and went steady. It may have been quicker with a nailgun but like you I wanted the ability to remove the boards if needed. Once I’d fitted the floor I sold the house and moved so it was fucking pointless, but I had good intentions and I would use them again.

Ok, I'll take that back, it might need a bottle of colourant added to either the closest match or an untinted tin to get a vibrant yellow, and check with the supplier that it'll mix in

Thank you. Last sentence cracked me up... How long did it take you? (and how large was the room?)

Ceiling leak is back. Seems like the shower leak was only half of it.

The bathroom floor tiles are over hardboard over floorboards. Joists are yellow, recessed lights in the ceiling below are green. The left hand side one is where water comes out, although the right hand side one leaked before.

Toilet waste in blue exits the building to the right. Sink waste in purple joins it somewhere inside the building.

I think I need to take up the floor.

Any thoughts?

1 Attachment

Sometimes water runs in weird places, on this I think you’ll have to at least lift the floor or cut a hole in the ceiling below it and see if you can see the water first, easier to patch plaster than relay a floor

If you were skilled at both then maybe taking out the ceiling would be the better option. I'm not sure I can do that. I can certainly take the ceiling down but would need to get someone in to replace it. But then the ceiling might be fucked anyway. So perhaps that's best.

It's a lot cheaper to stick a bit of plasterboard in the ceiling than replace tiles.

Am I being optimistic to think I can get the tiles up without breaking them and then sticking them back down afterwards?

Completely..

Fair. Think I'll take a day off work and cut some holes in the ceiling

They will break and you’ll not be putting them back down unless it’s in a bin.

Get a tape measure, level and a multi tool and you’ll be able to cut the ceiling no bother.

You also don’t need to take the full ceiling down, just cut hatches and you should be able to reuse the piece you cut out if you are gentle. If not a sheet of plaster bird is buttons and filler

Replacing standard plasterboard if you cut a couple of holes in the ceiling is definitely DIYable with little existing experience.

It's also really not expensive to get someone in to do that if you're unsure.

Tiles up will be much more expensive as Skinny said.

Anyone removed old sealant from around their double glazing and put in fresh sealant? Any tips?

Also what’s the best way to remove sealant, Stanley blade and acetone?

It's a job that I hate.

I wouldn't trust multisolve, as you will never be able to completely remove all of the old sealant. I don't want partly softened leftovers compromising the job.
I think if the sealant s mostly good, but has a couple of small splits, cut out the small sections and renew.
If its larger splits, cut off everything as far as possible.

One sharp glazing knife /chisel for neatly cutting the sealant off the window. Sharpen with wet and dry paper down to 800 grit or more.

Another for hacking away at the wall. Keep restoring the edge with 180 grit.

Use a brush and cloth to rub away any loose leftovers

Soudal or CT1 sealant

It's also really not expensive to get someone in to do that if you're unsure.

This is also what I was thinking.

It's quick too and ime people do a good job, whereas tiles you've always got to worry about whether someone will actually do a good job, and are suspicious of why are they doing your small job instead of fleecing people for £10k bathroom refurbs.

fleecing people for £10k bathroom refurbs

I felt this in my bones.

Sorry.

It was 3 seperate rooms plus a hallway (rooms were roughly 3x3m). I think it probably took me ~week per room which included removing other flooring, cutting boards, fixing, oiling and pretending to do a day job. I think I probably spent about 3-4 hours a day on it. I think it could be done in 2 days if you don't have other stuff to do. I don't think screwing the boards added a meaningful amount of time, its all the other stuff that adds up IMO.

Some random people on a bicycle forum told me to do it

1 Attachment

Looks wet, can you see leak?

He fucking fell for it lads. Idiot.

Constant drip from here. Sink waste into loo waste.

Seems to be at the mait/mastic point.

I'd had of assumed that this would be a solid T joint

1 Attachment

This pipe is an exit, so not constantly filled with water under pressure. But, the cistern in the loo is always overrunning into the loo a little bit, so there's always a little bit of through flow. Hence constantly dripping.

Next test is to run the sink/flush the loo and see if it gets worse