Hacks / Bodges

Possibly even lose a link.

This^

.

And or shorten the chain?

The rohloff need to be blocked by a screw. I can't move it further back.
Loose a link maybe but I fear not to reach the blocking screw anymore.
It's a very temporary solution anyway.

please explain

Despite arseholes taking the piss, I'll continue to contribute. For now.

Glue sticks to shit, but it seemed like a good idea to have this bit of glue only sticking to the mount, so it could be removed. The baking paper was a temporary measure, peeps.

I reckon a vanishingly small proportion of folks who consider themselves pretty handy would think this busted up piece of wonky crap was actually salvageable, but I managed to make it considerably more solid than if it was never fucked in the first place.

But for some reason (I can probably guess) I have to cop shit for going to the trouble of sharing how I did it.

Fuck off cunts.

I quite like the temporary paper, glue mould idea.

Same. And Thms has just literally zip tied his chain.

Top bodging all round, exactly what the thread is here for

Blocked by a screw? What axel plate are you running? For this dropout you need the OEM one and maybe need to reclock it.

You're right I have the wrong one (oem2) and a monkey bone. Until now it was working good so never minded and the wheel is shared with another bike which need oem2.
But thanks, I had forgotten it exists !

Corrugated for structural I would think

It all comes from a place of love.

Ahhh, with sharing as a dependency Swapping to the derailleur dropouts and running a tensioner would also solve all your problems

Yeah this thread wouldn't really exist if the solutions were logical and sensibly planned out.

True but the shared bike is not used often so I bought an oem plate ;)

Well nice then, it really is the best option with a rohloff when you have the dropouts for it. Rohloff + bafang is a pretty lovely combo. I was honestly surprised. What chainring/cog sizes are you running?

The bafang install is very fresh hence the adaptation phase.
For now 44x16 but I just bought a 104 bcd to adapt some of my narrow wide ring.
Will probably evolve in 38x16.

Ah

So you’ve used the glue not as glue, but so the mount fits against the frame snuggly. I must admit it wasn’t entirely apparent to me at first.

I like your bodge.

People who didn't get the purpose of the glue are clearly a bit hard of thinking.

(Or just bitter forum heads chomping at the bit to post a snarky reply in what is generally one of the nicest threads on the forum)

Not sure its the intention of the hobby hot glue thats the logic hurdle here, champ.

All fun and games until theres a 4kg battery flying about a busy CW1 or deciding to eject and cause a spill in heavy traffic.

Like I said, it's easily a great deal more robust than one that was never munted. Not sure why that isn't apparent... Originally the flimsy plastic base was slightly reinforced by a flimsy bit of ally sandwiching the plastic by three bolts. Now there's a 3mm bit of ally plate running all the way across and along under the retention clips, and the three bolts are holding the glue ridges in compression (because I did it with washers in place) against the tube. It's solid as fuck.

Pretty sure the melting point is above what's necessary. Especially now that I soldered a wire inside the battery which was just twisted together for some reason, and had started to melt its way through the bottom...

was just twisted together

That's insane!

I'm not sure it's quite in the spirit of the thread to post manufacturers' bodges.

manufacturers' bodges

Could be a whole thread of its own

Pretty sure someone must've been in there, fuck knows what they were doing.

I was trying to get the cells out so I could seal up a couple of cracks in the top of the casing, but I wasn't game to apply more than a little bit of force trying to break the glue holding them in. Ended up just welding the cracks from the outside with my soldering iron.