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  • I’m going to join in as well.
    To use a torque wrench or not? That is the question.
    Collectively we have come to the conclusion that not all wrenches read the same, so why use one? It’s all about consistency. The actual torque isn’t really that important (there is a range of torque spec on most parts) as long as all the bolts are pulled down evenly and to the same torque. This spreads the clamping force across the whole of the bolt pattern, stopping pinch points and therefore more force on one point, which can deform more easily. An even gap on a stem faceplate for example is much better than having one on the piss. Both can be torqued to spec, but only one has the correct clamping force.
    So do you need to use a torque wrench then?
    On steel parts on a bike probably not, aluminium bits yeah, carbon definitely. As long as you use the same tool on each bolt of an assembly the torque on each bolt will be the same and should be within range. You can do that by feel? You can tighten things so they are tight enough to hold the part and not snap the bolt or strip the thread. But the clamping force will be on one bolt more than the others, this is impossible to avoid. If you are gauging your muscle memory and the “I don’t snap bolts” as your metric then crack on.
    The answer?
    Do what you like, it’s your bike, you are riding it. Oh

    All the above assumes that the bolts are free spinning and you are not over coming any issues there.

  • The actual torque isn’t really that important (there is a range of torque spec on most parts) as long as all the bolts are pulled down evenly and to the same torque

    Do all my stem bolts up evenly to 150Nm by feel, got it.

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