Transmission database - for all your crank / bb / bottom bracket questions

I was going to get the cheap powermeter crankset on amazon Spain but I don't need it... has the hallmarks of building another bike. Best I don't save money and spend a shitload extra :)

Oh if you only mean the crank, which I should have realised given the thread title, go nuts, that'll work yeah

I mistakenly thought you were asking for the whole drivetrain. Like can you use 11s chain and cassette on an otherwise 12s rival set up with derailleur etc

Nah, just the Rival crankset with single side power. Seems cheap so why not, sort of thing

Yeah go for it, it'll work fine

Anyone got any experience running Hope 24mm BSA bb and Omnium track cranks?

I’m looking at running a BMX crank in a single speed frame. It’s got a black box ceramic BB at the minute which I’m keen to keep. Is it simply a case of using a shim from 24mm to 19mm on one side and a 22mm to 19mm on the other side? Obviously I’d need the spacers etc to get the chainline correct. If that’s not the way forward is a euro to 19mm bb what I need?
I’ve been offered some posh cranks and it would be nice to use them rather than the sram ones I have now.
Cheers ta.

Hey, guys
If you have any experience running Hope or Phil Wood Outboard BB + Omnium crankset on your fixie, let me know what works well and is long lasting.
I'm looking for a new BB for my Omnium cranks. Thinking Hope, Phill, or SRAM GXP ceramic bb.

Ta

Need help identifying these cranks. Came on tandem and embarrassingly not quite sure how to remove. Assuming that little cap needs to come off but seemingly no hex key unlocks..

Also need advice on adjusting this eccentric BB. Loosened bolts underneath the BB shell but not wanting to budge. Figured might need to take cranks off to adjust which is probs wrong but worth knowing how to remove them regardless.

edit, excuse the massive pics! Seems the cranks are specialized but still no further as to how to remove..

Edit**. Solved it. Needle nose pliers in the dust cap and twist.

BB it turns out you just use the crank against a chunky hex key in one of the holes and that does the trick.

Should probably invest in a pin spanner I guess.

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not really used to two-pice cranks like hollowtech, and I was wondering if there was any safe possibility to play a bit with chainline? For example let's say with a SG75 DD, would adding spacer each side allow to widen a bit the chainline without compromising the link between the left arm and the spindle? intuitively I would say it is not a good idea, but just wanted to have other opinions on it!

We all already know GPX bb's are shit, I've got one with a worn bearing after 500km, just removed it and found some weird corrosion/ pitting on the thread, it was mounted with plenty grease. Did anyone ever see this before?

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Anyone ever dis-assembled a Mavic bb (the chamfer version) to service the bearings?
I managed to free one face(?) using a pin spanner to lock the thing but the other seems stuck as fuck - the big nut (which has had the faces chewed to fuck by someone with molegrips by the look) on the NDS don’t budge
Maybe it’s as stuck as it’s supposed
Am trying to service (phnarr) the bearings but how do they get parole? Freed?

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The Mavic pin tool engaged all six holes at the same time. If you managed to undo a side with a normal pin tool, you were lucky. It is over 30 years since I replaced the bearings in a Mavic BB and the exact details are a little hazy. Unless the bearings are actually shot, just let them run. Anything else is silly.

http://www.cadre.org/bike_stuff/Mavic/Manuals/ZMS/Page2.jpg is an exploded diagram.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-1rmgckn/images/stencil/2280x2280/products/8919/104862/NOS_modolo_master_pro_brakeset_levers_-30__99852.1590026766.jpg?c=2 shows the pin tool amongst the full kit. The lockring tool engaged with multiple notches, rather than just one.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-1rmgckn/images/stencil/2280x2280/products/6703/79608/nib_nos_1990s_mtb_parts_xt_dx_lx_m739_m750_19793__24660.1530837516.JPG?c=2 might be helpful.

Ah, that’s all super-helpful thanks
The bearings don’t feel too bad, slightly notchy but when I dropped the bb into the frame last night and popped a chainset on to start looking at chain lines, the thing spins really nicely - so might not need so much attention
But I might try and find that six pin pinthing anyway, just out of interest:)