Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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  • Use lubricant and go slow as you can as you will get case hardening.

    Try drilling a hole and hammering in a torx bit. Have had more success with that than easy outs.

  • 99% sure I didn’t go slow enough and have blunted done drill bits. I’ve got the tap in. But didn’t realise a tap wrench was needed. I did ask in the motor factors place but he just said use a spanner. Either way it’s not moving

  • Do you have a Lidl near by? As last week the were selling drill bits and a drill and tap set that are of brilliant quality for the price.

    Or that leaves Screwfix/Toolstation for drill bits.

    As for the easy outs, you can get away with a small adjustable spanner. Be gentle with the easy out as if it snaps it becomes a real arse if a job to get out

    Remember if it goes to shit, you can drill the hole bigger and use a time sert. Time serts are way better than helicoils.

    Hopefully you had dry and not too windy weather.

  • Are you retapping threads?

    You have to go in a bit, then back a bit, then in again a bit more, then back again. Have you got some lubricant in there too?

  • I’ll buy some more drill bits and have another go. I’m about 1/2 way through the bolt.

    There’s a lidl en route too

  • £800 bill from this year's service seems slightly less painful now.

  • Just stumbled across this. Really into the cars but also the maker - seems to have a really nice approach to balancing the old and new.

    https://youtu.be/tyQvRyyV2PY?si=GEw7CKUV8BZHSQeX

  • It’s well and truly stuck. Looking at the picture it doesn’t look like it’s at the correct angle.


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  • Yikes. This kid of stuff is the thing of nightmares. I remember when I snapped a bolt in my KTM.

  • My car (Jazz) leaks a liquid from under the engine. Pretty sure it is water. Doesn't happen every time I use it but happens on multiple occasions.

    No warning lights or steam etc.

    The water reservoir isn't empty (I've topped it up to be sure) and the radiator looks full. No sign of leaky pipe.

    Shall I just continue to ignore it?


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  • Possibly condensation from the air-conditioning.

  • I hadn't considered that

  • Has it got AC? You get drips from condensation.

  • Nightmare is a very good description of the situation. I’m also so far away from mechanic/engineer.

    It’s not the kind of job you want to feel your way through.

    My Dad lives about 5 minutes down the road and I’m tempted to push it to his. As I only really want it out of my garage. Although it working is preferential.

  • Can you heat the area? Hopefully heat will help move the bolt remains as it is not seized in.

    Be gentle with easy out as breaking the easy out is bad.

    Can you use the drill to make the hole more conical, that way you can hammer a slightly larger torx bit in to the hole? Try to see if that would help get the bolt out. If that gives no joy then, is there enough space for an impact driver and hammer to get it to move.

  • But before you do anything else please please clean out all the crap from the water ways and stuff a rag in there to stop anything else from getting in. Don’t want to fucking up the new pump once you’ve got it on.

  • Hello,

    Easiest way to identify the source is, imo, is by putting a piece of cardboard under the car.

    That way you can identify the colour so if it is coolant, it will have a colour. If it is screen wash hopefully a different colour and usually a smell.

    If it condensation from the air con should be clear water.

  • Good shout. Thanks for all the advice. It’s very much appreciated.

  • Though they would have done that as metal bits in the water system aren't good.

    @Light_EDDed get a wet and dry vac to draw all the metal bits out, flush the system with a hose pipe, feed the water from the rad so the water exits from the area the the shards went in. That should clear the area out.

    You might have to cut up the water pump, remove the impeller and head. Then use the body of the water pump bolted in place and the broken bolt hole as a guide to drill the broken bolt out. Use motor oil to keep the drill bit cool and sharp.

    Do you have access to a welder?

  • /conversations/128581/?offset=925#comment17488897

    This is the bit set I got from Lidl that would be perfect for this job.

  • In that case, weld a smaller bolt in to the hole you have drilled and then unscrew.

  • Omg! If there’s a welder, just blob a little bit of weld until you have a bit sticking out and as @lynx says weld a nut through the hole to that. The heat will have released the bolt and it’s a bingo. 60% of the time it works every time.

  • Asking for a friend (me obviously) is a Mk6 Golf going to look stupid, by stupid I mean will people actually laugh at it, with a roof basket? They (I obviously) need to get a Canadian canoe, paddles, stuff sacks, 2 Bromptons, 3 people and a dog somewhere, some times

  • Might be better to reply @Light_EDDed not me.

    The bolt is not siezed in, 'just'overtighten. So looking at ways to get the bolt out. So welding a bolt in the drilled hole will either get the bolt out or break the weld or break the bolt. Even if the bolt breaks easy enough to remove.

    Personally I'd try widening the hole with a drill, to make the hole conical and hammer a torx bit in. So the edges get some bite in to the bolt. Using an impact driver will hopefully give it the incentive to move.

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Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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