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Yeah up the cobbles, down the loooong cobbles by the memorial, then up the cobbles and down the tarmac side we did. It was a miracle my panniers were still on haha
+1 for not waving, that really surprised me. Like getting blood out of a stone a hello from some people.
Interestingly I found the road riders more friendly than UK road riders.
Ouch, I bet going down it was interesting if you did the cobbles! I don't think they race down the cobbles anymore, too dangerous. The recommended route goes up the Kemmelberg from all directions, but the downhills avoided the cobbles except a short stretch on the final descent (I think).