Home DIY

@aggi or @mespilus re the workmate alternatives are the jaws and overall structure sufficient to plan wood?

In my case a c.30cm long peice of wood.

@jono84 what did you go with in the end? Sadly my dad's workmate now seems at the end of its life as I can't grip wood to plane. And unfortunately the cost of replacing the top makes repairing prohibitively expensive.

I wouldn't have any real concerns about clamping down (relatively) soft wood to allow planing.
I don't know if Keter actually manufacture those clamps.
Irwin, who do manufacture a range of clamps do supply different clamping force,
cheapest, force unspecified, (150/300mm length)
medium duty, 136kg, (150-900mm)
heavy duty, 272kg, (150-900mm).
If you had a real c0ncern Toolstation stock the Irwin medium duty, (heavy are 'next day').

You could relieve some of the stress on both the planer and the clamps by cutting a series of shallow cuts with a saw, (hand/powered), to remove most of the unwanted timber.

Thos clamps are just standard quick grip clamps so fine for holding securely. Not sure if they'd be as good as a workmate for clamping something and planing the whole length as the workmate clamps are lower profile but you could always add some spacers to allow that.

It's a more stable structure and a bit heavier but doesn't have a bar at the bottom where you can put your foot to prevent wobbling. Don't really remember that being an issue when I've used it though.

Main reason I have it is that it folds up neater and fits in the cupboard under my stairs which means I actually use it as opposed to not bothering getting the workmate down from the loft and using garden furniture instead ... It's useful enough but nothing revolutionary compared to a workmate (although the quick clamps can make it a bit quicker than winding in and out).

I've had the reverse where mine has lived pretty much exclusively outside.

Still, got to be over 40yo. So not a bad innings.

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That deserves a proper funeral.

Didn't someone 'on here' find a seller of reasonably priced, replacement workmate boards made from water resistant MDF with additional dogholes for better/easier clamping.

If it didn't have a wooble / I could weld then I'd find it impossible to get rid of 😢

I've now got the tools to make replacement tops myself (assuming I can remove the retaining bolts), but the wood is going to be a third of the Costco cost for something that is heavy and hard to store.

It really is a brilliant bit of design.

That is the good type. Heavier and a nice wide step.

That deserves a proper funeral.

Exorcism perhaps?

For anyone after clamps, Aldi have their quick grip ones in again. I've about 12 in various sizes and no issues, tempted to get more.

£6.99 for a pack of 2 large clamps
£6.99 for a pack of two medium and 2 small clamps.

How about taking it apart, get it welded, and have it powdercoated. That would be my plan. And then I'd bin it 10 years later.

£££s

FFS! If there's one place I'd expect to be able to get some validation for buying something new...

Now you're all making me think about whether I can fix the wobble with washers and replacement bolts (I think it's caused by an enlarged hole) and make my own MR MDF top from the B&Q bin.

I screwed a layer of ply on the top a few years ago so the hole locations will be there

What are my options for attaching some trim/infill above some fitted cabinets ? Hoping for something like clips or glue to avoid screwing into the front of the thing.

I found these in a YouTube video, seems nice if you might need to move it at some point

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/button-fix-type-2-fix-&-button-for-countersunk-wood-screws-25-x-50mm-pack-of-12-225959

Went with the left over C24 grade 2x4 in the end. It's had a hard life indoors and out and has lived in the same shed as the doors. Idk if moisturiser alignment is a thing but whatever. It seemed tough enough.

Managed to get all the bits prepped last night, glued up in my lunch break and planned in the afternoon. Fucking love my Stanley No.4. Planes are great aren't they?

One thing I'm not sure about is the lock mechanisms. We want roller ball catches and some as yet unknown door handles. Am I best off removing the whole lot and filling? They look like some sort of combi roller ball catch and lock(?).

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Ok bang some of that fun toolbox paint on it and done.

Ok maybe you have more urgent jobs and just need a table.

DHS680Z will take the guide rail adapter posted above. Has been fine for me over last few years, cuts might not be as neat as track saw but I'm not doing any fancy work. I think I paid £120, seems to be closer to £170 now though.

Thanks, and yes inflation hit me, prices are mad on things these days. That's what I got in the end. I figure with some care setting up it should be able to be really neat.
If I make new cupboards maybe I'll get a track saw but for now this will do for nearly everything.

Bit of filler and sanding, that'll clean right up.

These look like the real deal, thanks.

Also found a Peter Millard video where he just screws up into the infill piece through the top of the cabinet, then uses filler over the holes.

love my Stanley No.4

+1 for that!

I got the Worx Pegasus and am really happy with it. Not cheap nor as light as i thought it might be but super sturdy with a bigger/flatter work top and packs down neatly . Clamp system and storage is well thought out and it just feels like a new design. An extra but for planing wood you might want to look into the saw horse add on as well.

We have a LV Extract fan in the bathroom with a burned out motor. Any recommendations/reason to not replace like for like?

Not sure if it's actually in the splash area from a safety/zones to require low power

https://www.xpelair.co.uk/product/lv100hta-4100mm-selv-axial-extract-fan-kit-humidistat-timer

Check the regs but ipx4 should be allowed in Zone 1 according to my very recent check.

Zone 1 :- Electrical items installed in this area can be mains voltage but must have an IP rating of IPX4 or higher and must be fitted to a 30ma RCD or equivalent RCBO protected circuit. Low voltage items can also be installed in this area, but the transformer must be located outside of zone 2.

The one you linked to is IPX5