Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I have this one in silver,done about 600km with it now and still looks like new, no stupid branding on it either.

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001829209366.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.1000013.7.4462104biVv21H&gps-id=storeRecommendH5&scm=1007.18500.300835.0&scm_id=1007.18500.300835.0&scm-url=1007.18500.300835.0&pvid=c6019d0b-73f9-45df-8b67-1716fbc5c359&_t=gps-id:storeRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.18500.300835.0,pvid:c6019d0b-73f9-45df-8b67-1716fbc5c359,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2127.59%2127.59%21%21%2129.43%2129.43%21%402103853f17234834778527962ed14b%2112000017778450680%21rec%21NL%212525787365%21X

Schwalbe Marathon Plus?

They are not true to size and comes up bigger, try another 40c tyre and it'll fit just fine.

I am a fan of paselas as they have great grip, puncture resistant and feel quite nice even running 23mm tyres

And if you want something a bit more fancy; Blackspire Mono Veloce.
Sugino messenger is also an option;

https://www.singlespeedshop.com/Single-Speed---Fixed-Gear/Chainrings473/Sugino/Sugino-Messenger-Chainring---130mm---Black.html?language=en

I need a half link for a SRAM PC1 chain and foolishly thought I could use any 1/2 x 1/8 one. What can I safely use? Would this one in Condor work?

Yup!

Great - thank you. I’ll go in tomorrow

I have got mineral oil on my disc and pads. I assume it's not too hard to clean up the disc with alcohol but do I need to replace the pads?

Probably. Try sanding and disc cleaner and flambéing them if your brave but replacement is likely the easier and better option.

Shimmed seatposts, yay or nay?

I’ve had an Orange P7 that came shimmed from the factory and my Raleigh twenty has a seattube that’s swaged down to size only for the top 1”/1 ½” so kind of the same amount of contact as a shimmed one and both of these were/are fine.

I’m looking for a suspension post for my gravel bike and being able to buy a 27.2mm one instead of the 31.6mm that the frame natively takes would open up a few more options.

Shimmed seatposts, yay or nay?

I've had good luck with them on rigid posts, but I'd check that whatever shim you use is as long as the seatpost manufacturer's recommended minimum insertion for a suspension post as they're likely to be much more fussy about any elastic bendage.

Discs I would clean with some sort of solvent, then wash it, then sand it (so you don't just move contamination around).
Pads are slightly porous, and burning only really works for DOT fluid. If mineral oil got on them, it's just easier to bin them and put new ones in.

And don't do that again.

they're likely to be much more fussy about any elastic bendage.

Are you thinking about telescopic suspension posts here? I’m looking at parallelogram ones as I want to avoid the rotational play that’s present in the bouncy dropper I have. The clamped shaft of a parallelogram type post would surely be equivalent to a rigid post?

burning only really works for DOT fluid.

Every day’s a school day.

Are you thinking about telescopic suspension posts here?

Yes

Thanks. And I won't.

I’m having difficulties changing in to the big ring, the chain takes a while to catch and engage with the chainring.

Is it because the chainring teeth are worn out?

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It's more likely a cable tension or limit screw issue

I don’t think it’s the limit screw, if I extend the range it throws the chain off (and the mech rubs the crank arm).

Have you tried more tension on the cable? Lots of others on here are much more knowledgeable than I am but I had a similar issue recently and that solved it. Easier and cheaper to try than a new chainring as well!

I’ll give it a go, as you said easy to try without effort or expense.

I don’t remember having the issue last time I was running this chainset so maybe it is an easy fix.

difficulties changing in to the big ring

Show us your dérailleur cage position. Having it too far from the ring can cause slow shifts

The smallest part of the gap is around 2-3mm.

2 turns of the barrel adjuster on the mech has improved things no end.

I thought the cable was pulling the cage over to the full range of motion before but I must have been mistaken.

Thanks all

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Trying to adjust TRP Hyrd brakes so that the pads align. Im used to having screws to adjust alignment but can’t see them on these brakes. I’ve googled but can’t work it out. Can someone help?

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Don't you align them like any other hydraulic brake, namely loosen the bolts, press the lever so the brake is fully on, then tighten the bolts and release the lever once tightened?