Home DIY

sorry about the non DIY suggestions

I'm totally onboard with non-diy. A bit part of diy for me is getting vfm. A pet hate are those mom-hacks that require spending more on the additional supplies that an otp item would cost.

But initial searches are throwing up >£500 things that I don't love. And £1.2k for the ones I do.

The issue with this one is that it's 40cm wide. I need to get my tape measure out, but I think 80x80cm could work.

Looking at the other sizes it's basically two sheets - a curve and a flat - configured differently. I assume the reason they're all 40cm wide is to do with the internal brace and you just put more braces in for higher and longer ones.

My workings guess the flat panels on at ~37cm

2x curves=40cm wide therefore, 1x curve=20cm long
20+?+?+20=114
114-40=74/2=37

The 6 panel looks to use the same with flat panels and 6*37+40=262. Which is close enough to hopefully confirm this.

... So then the questions are:

1. Is ~77cm big enough (2x curves @ 20cm +flat @ ~37cm)?
   
2. Is there's a way to make the brace work in a non-standard configuration?
   
3. Is there another strength/structural factor that means these aren't suitable - e.g. The tree is fucking heavy.
   
4. Will the braces block the rootball from sitting inside? (highly likely 😔)
   

I was just concerned that in a container, or even double container, that it would suffer more with radiating heat from hard surfaces around it- but it does look like a hardy thing - last stab idea, could a low climbing plant be trained up and around the pot

Onto jobs much higher up the priority list...

After assessing my free upstairs pine doors two have fucked wood at the top hinge. It looks too big to fill, so I need to cut and splice a peice of replacement wood in. Both roughly 25 x 2.6 x 1.5cm.

What do I need to know given that it is bang on where the new hinge will sit? I guess I also add some reinforcing screws.

Specifically what wood I use, is modern pine strong enough? I have a bit of spare hard wood (meranti probably).

Also for the top door I could probably get away with just a 15cm long section + filler instead of the full 27cm. Is it easier/better to do that or is splicing the full length easier/better?

Is it worth moving the hinges down the door? More effort but having measured only 2 out of 4 of the door frames have hinges in the same place, so I don't think it will matter visually.

I have a router.

Cheers.

1 Attachment

No. The current pot is fucking massive and wouldn't fit in the spot out the front I want to put it.

Router/chisel out the doors so that the "hole" is uniform.
Glue in some oversized pine using PVA and cramps.
Plane flush, then fit hinges.

The glued timber, if done correctly, will be at least as strong as the original.

Best advice from dug.
Removing a hinge is the first step on the inevitable path of buying a new pre hung door.

You don't think there's a risk of a heavy door pulling on the joint?

With the one that's not damaged all the way a sort of wedge shape like this seems like it would give more mechanical strength. But unsure of how you'd do something with the door that's fucked all the way to the top.

No, none of that. It will be totally fine if you glue in a new fillet properly.

Maybe don't make the new piece so you screw exactly between old and new, and carefully use nice, long enough screws to fix hinges.
But if the surfaces are even on the new and old wood and you clamp properly, it will be very strong.

Cheers both.

Next question is where do I go to get the wood from.

These old properly heavy dense pine so am I better off just buying hardwood from a building merchant, rather than trying to find good quality pine?

Eg
https://www.selcobw.com/par-hardwood-50-x-25mm-2-x-1
PAR Hardwood 50 x 25mm (2" x 1")
Item Code: 050490001

I still have some offcuts of C24 grade 2x4 which I could also use. If that is viable it'd be great as it would save fucking around finding stock.

Not sure about the 4x2, it's of such variable quality that there's a chance it may actually be too shit.
But hardwood isn't necessary; if you were to ask a joiner/good timber yard for an offcut of "sawn joinery" that would definitely suffice. I mean you only need 600mm of 20x30, that's firewood to most places.
Or ask a timber supplier for a 600mm sample of ex-25mm tgv (tongue and groove)

I've got a few pieces I salvaged from an old pine door and planed up but I'm up in Manchester

Cheers. I'll have a search, but you've kinda hit on why I was just going to get that hardwood from Selco had it been in stock.

It's getting around to finding and making it to one of those places during weekday work hours that's always a pain.

creating a corrugated shed roof, what is the cheapest way to create a water tight ridge cap?

the 'proper' solution is expensive and will cost as much as the rest of the roof (I'd need 5 of the below)

https://www.thepolycarbonatestore.co.uk/corrugated-pvc-ridge?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2ou2BhCCARIsANAwM2FXFisCQPWvrd_-lKhHqr345xwE-zHwf8fG8jifa34Ga34XtgMJFW8aAuHkEALw_wcB

Length of plastic guttering upside down running along the ridge?

Maktia battery circular saw that can be put on a track/guide rail.

There seem to be a dozen different circulars. Anyone care to recommend one?

The XSH03Z fits the bill but I can't see if it's guide rail compatable. I can't seem to filter by that.

If it's a circular saw I'm pretty sure you need a guide rail adaptor.

Yeah but I want to be sure that the circular saw I by could take one. I'll try call maktia

In the passed I've used a metal straight clamped and then cut along that, but would be nice to use a guide rail if I could sometimes.

Calling them is best.

I found this image if it helps

I went down this rabbit warren.

Consensus seemed to be if you want long straight repeatable cuts get a track saw; big brand circular saws that are compatible with a track will be at least as pricey and less easy to use.

Thanks

I'll stick to a metal bar edge then.

I bought a Kreg straight cut when I decided a specific track saw was too expensive. Might be a slight upgrade on a metal bar edge?

Thanks nice solution.

A circular saw is the better tool most of the time for me.

good shout, will see if there is some guttering that is suitable, want it to be cheap but guess its pointless if it saves £30 but leaks.