Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Haven't tried a gel CA glue, but using bicarb with the normal stuff has allowed me to fix things I'd otherwise need epoxy for, and it's instant. Bit fiddly though, sometimes I tidy it up with a dremel

Does anyone have a solution for a fully bricked di2 rear mech? Its fairly old, but nothing untoward has happened to it. It just packed up one day and has not started again, no amount of fiddling has fixed it.

Ive tried all the obvious di2 things, but it does not shift and does not show up on the etube. Its not any other components as i have other di2 mechs that work fine with the same groupset.

It has died on the inside.

Haha yes that is what I feared

Connect with PCE2 thingy straight to computer and see what happens. Or go to a shop with one

Ah yeah, ill hunt down a shop with one.

Maybe a firmware update will sort it

I had that during Transiberica. But it wasn't the RD it was everything. Totally dead, assumed I'd lost battery connection. Plugged it into shop unit and everything appeared. Made no sense. Got firmware updated and moved on with my life. I guess there was a bug that some combination of actions triggered that deaded everything and you ride enough you find it :)

https://arstechnica.com/security/2024/08/researchers-hack-electronic-shifters-with-a-few-hundred-dollars-of-hardware/

"wireless"

kicks back, nods, smirks

I think my etap 11 speed rear derailleur has died :(
The green light blinks, but servo won’t move. Have cleaned it thoroughly, charged and changed batteries, re paired the system - still won’t move. Anything I’ve missed?
To be fair, it’s lasted 8 trouble free years.

Can you help it shift by hand? Or it's just not moving?

Nothing moving. The button on the mech just flashes the green light, but no movement and no sound

Thanks. Finally got around to having another go, v3.4.5 won’t find it. Still on the hunt then.

Did you get anywhere with finding one? The di2 kit on one of my bikes seems to have a serious battery drain problem, which switching the battery and replacing some wiring doesn't seem to have solved. I need to work out what's causing it, partly because I'm about to sell a full di2 groupset off another bike and it's just occurred to me that that selling whichever part would be a curative swap for the drain issue might not be sensible! So could do with working out the cause, and not entirely sure best way to do that (quickly)...

I got one of those bluetooth things to pair with Garmin and check battery levels.
Then disconnected bits and left to see what made the difference.

One bike had no battery holder, so the battery was able to bounce up and down and kill the seatpost battery wire and the other one was a FD wire that was too short which caused it to be tight around the frame and rub through.

Just a visual inspection would've found both issues.

Cheers, I'm almost certain it will be exactly the same issue with mine! As with all these things finding the time to do something about it is the big issue...!

Here's a thought - if/when you have a dead Di2 component, hack the connector out of it so you can test cables for a short. If you have two, you can check for continuity.

This may or may not be news to you but you can add your Di2 battery level to your Garmin display to assist you in remembering when to charge your battery

https://www.instagram.com/p/DAN2luEJVGP/?igsh=MW02Z211anEwZzNqdg==

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If you have the wireless EW111 thing, right?

I only used it once for debugging. I'm far more likely to simply carry the charger around than worry about charge (as evidenced by the number of times I've just let it go flat)

I don't know the detail, you would need to check with Mad Melv 👆 for that.

hippy is correct - for r8070 series, the EW111 thing does do that but also more usefully lets you control the Edge - things like changing screen, starting and stopping activities, flicking straight to a certain screen - and also light circuits as well, using combinations of button presses on the hood top extra buttons, and also changing shifting modes and other stuff using the Edge controls. Very useful.

On R8170 all that also works, but through the already-wireless function of the shifters.

I have an AXS MTB shifter that is no longer working after 8000km on the rack on the back of my car. I removed the circuit board, and it seems to work very intermittently but I can't diagnose where the damaged connection is. If anyone is good with tiny electronics and wants the board for the cost of postage I'd be happy to send it.

8000km on the rack on the back of my car.

Well, that's one way to get ultras done.

Best place/price for an electronic groupset? Asking for a friend (no, really).

He has manual shifting ATM on a Canyon Speedmax TT bike. anything he should be aware of when upgrading?