Home DIY

Anyone seen any of these with two usb c sockets rather than 1 c and 1 a?

I guess it's the transformer or the USB socket that will fail. On top of that there's the shifting standards although USB C should be around for a long while. The older USB versions are going to be less and less useful as time passes.

The electrical installation industry is not keen on them because they all need to be removed before you can carry out 500v resistance tests on a circuit which are part of the installation process. You can test at 250v but 500v is the recommended test.

If you can afford to change them when they fail or can do it yourself then they're a modern convenience.

We have some roofing coping stones on our house that don't have a drip channel. This means when it rains heavily the water runs down the coping stones then down the outside of our wall. Is there anything that exists so I can retrofit a drip channel, or should I just get them replaced for stones with a drip channel?

How much overhang is there? Run a bead of sealant on the bottom surface half an inch in from the edges so you get a drip ridge rather than channel?

yeah, not much. TBH I think the channel might be hidden under the parapet. I was thinking about fitting a trim around the bottom edge to force it to drip but might look shit. Maybe clear silicone is enough and less visible.

Do they overhang enough for you to grind a slot in the bottom of them?

Chris from Foureyes has done just what you need.
https://youtu.be/LxY-PB4WE10?si=Awd4-4613BijcV31

after many coats of paint to get the desired consistency all the painting is done in my home office build.

and I got as far as the final piece installing the laminate this afternoon when the heavens opened up and had to pack up for the day so have an infuriatingly close to finished floor to finish off tomorrow if the weather clears.

Though i'm proud of myself for unlocking the new skill of being able to rip stuff down with my circular saw, guide rail and a sheet of leftover insulation to cut the final row to size having never done it before.

at some point i may even work up enough courage and actually fire up my jobsite table saw (though i feel like i'd rather get a proper outfeed table setup sorted in my finished workshop before using it for anything big).

I think it's really come a long way since i started. getting the skirting and the little bits of trim in place over the weekend is gonna make it look nice and polished as a room hopefully. then i can start thinking about building the desk, which is less daunting now i can rip stuff with my circ. saw as plywood is all i can budget for at the moment.

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No - I think the only option is to add something to the bottom edge

X-posting from extension thread:

Would anyone like this cute Victorian front door? Approx 810 x 2020mm.

I pulled it out of a skip years ago and had it chemically stripped but never got round to fitting it. Can’t deal with eBay.

Free, collection from E10.

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Wow, what a change for the better!

Dang that's really nice too. I will see what my joiner says to it...

I'm in the same postcode and (7!) months ago ordered a new door. Almost at the point of wanting to take that off your hands in case I have to wait any longer... Looks lovely, and essentially what we've ordered.

PSA: A 9ft concrete fence posts (end) weighs a fucking tonne and you should not try set one on your own. Nuff swearing, cuts and bruises.

Nice work.

What's the table under the pizza oven?

when a ‘smart’ light bulb says it’s ‘dimmable via app’ - will there be a manufacturer specific app? or are generic smart bulb (iOS) apps that pop up going to work?

thinking about this one

had originally planned to get an in-line dimmer switch to wire in mid-cable, but seems these aren’t quite as ubiqitous or cheap as i’s hoped (lamp itself is an £8 ikea job)

Assume it is a random app from an unknown publisher that might even require you to sideloaf unless it says otherwise. That one says it works with Alexa/Google etc so is probably fine without a specific app to run but might need to be configured with a magic app. Ten quid isn't an especially big risk...

It'll be a shonky manufacturer specific app on iOS. If you want to control it directly from the Home app or Siri or the Control Centre it will need to be "HomeKit" or "Matter" compatible.

(I got a "Wiz" lightbulb on clearance which isn't Homekit compatible but can be set to toggle between two different brightness levels by switching it off and on, so I never need to touch the app ever again)

just 2 of the 90x90cm ooni tables side by side. have a joining kit to tie them together but not done it as i need to move them when our gazeebo is setup.

skirting board arrived right at the end of the day so feel like i've wasted today but i did get some stair edge nosing trim for the step into the office installed and it's looking reet sexy and finished now and safe to step on. will clean the kickboard properly when tidying up the doorframe after construction stuff is all done.

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Any experience here of replacing upvc windows with wooden sash windows and any pitfalls to avoid or recommended manufacturers?

I need to anchor some fence posts to a concrete slab, I have the post holders that need bolts through to the concrete. The slab originally had some bolts sticking out from the old fence which I was planning to use, but it looks like next doors builders have chopped them off (wtf).

What do I need for this? Something like this?

https://www.fencepostspikes.net/product/fence-post-bolt-down-anchors-support-galvanised/

Probably some horrendous proprietary app.

I favour the hue bulbs as they play nicely with other stuff but more expensive.

productive day doing all the final tweaks with skirting/trim. just some caulking to do once grab adhesive is fully cured and decorating is done. any stuff that's not covered up yet will be hidden by cable trunking or stuff i have planned for lighting.

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I want to install a patio and have laid a layer of Type 1 to half of the patio area but the other half has all this stuff in the way like the concrete riser for the manhole cover and the drains and awkward shaped walls so it won't be possible to get the MOT down and compacted - neither the depth nor the space for a wacker.

Do I put concrete over that bit up to the layer of the type 1 on the other half or something else?

IKEA ones are generic ZigBee and controllable via the switches or any ZigBee system.

Can't say I've used WiFi one but I'd be concerned about having too many random devices pinging my home wifi. The kids already have hundreds of devices clogging it up