• is the current setup likely to fail as a result of the height difference?

    The theoretical issue is that the clamp will walk up the seat tube and eventually let the post slip. That's probably going to more annoying than dangerous, and it's going to put a big ugly score up the most visible part.

  • Interesting. Out of curiosity, what would cause it to walk up? It not being seated properly? There's no upward pressure on the clamp so I'm struggling to understand the mechanics at play. In any case, it sounds like I can keep an eye on it for now - I'll scour the internet for a chrome clamp of the correct height/fastening mechanism.

    @Kimmo I'm not sure to be honest. The Barachhi frameset has a designated portion of the seat-tube that's good for clamping, ie. it's of a narrower diameter and is raw carbon, rather than painted. I think this is my fuck-up, not Tune's - I should've got the right height collar. Not sure I quite follow with the dremel instructions though, do you mean dremel the bottom of the clamp to make sure it sits flush (ish)?

  • Out of curiosity, what would cause it to walk up?

    It squishes the top of the seattube so that's a smaller diameter and the clamp will slide up towards that smaller diameter.

    Tester will put it in more technical language.

  • There's no upward pressure on the clamp

    Hoop stress plus the induced taper makes an inclined plane generating a small upward force. In a static situation, this doesn't matter because the taper angle is far below the maximum for a self locking system (something something sinθ something something coefficient of friction) A seat post is about the worst possible deviation from a static assembly, as it has large cyclic eccentric loads applied.

    In real life, you're unlikely to have a problem, I'm just explaining why the design is theoretically problematic.

  • Not sure I quite follow with the dremel instructions though, do you mean dremel the bottom of the clamp to make sure it sits flush (ish)?

    Nah, I was saying that if I was you I'd have a go at making that upper lip only 1mm deep instead of 3mm deep by removing metal from inside. Aside from the effort involved, it would be the perfect crime because the sins would be hidden, and removing a tad extra (to increase the ID just under the lip) would leave the upper 2mm of the seat tube unclamped.

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