Home DIY

I would normally start with LSX. It has saved me a lot of these kind of problems.

So now you’ve showed it as I thought it was a washer or O ring won’t work. You need to tape it or use loctite 577!

Only way to seal it

I want to make a nice container for this bay tree

Trunk circumference 35cm
Height (inc pot) 160cm
Width 120cm - w/could trim to 90cm

I want it to fit into a particular area in my front tiled and for it to look like a pot. The ground is slightly sloped so I'd need to shim or build it to an angle.

Initial thoughts are using decking boards with some sort of internal frame. But Idk if it'll look a bit naff.

Any other ideas? Ideally black.

Cheers

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Wanna make a bunch of cabinets for my new place so thought what better an idea than to buy a plunge saw and a 1/2 router here we go.

Thanks all. Even 28 wraps of PTFE still had a drip after a few minutes. Managed to get a good seal with a good few wraps of sealing cord. Loctite 577 wasn't available near me at the weekend.

A few posts on other fora suggest bonded seals and they do look the ticket, but A: I don't know how long I can expect a nitrile seal to last, and B: should I fix what ain't broken?

If you have a watertight seal I would leave it, but I'd consider where a future leak would appear and how you'll access it all.

has anyone made/bought shelves with a tapering width?

I want some on a section of wall leading to a doorway and don't want a square edge facing a high footfall area.

Red is the proposed shelf (don't stress the dimensions - there's plenty of space for it)

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I'd have to cut the tiles out and into backer board if anything goes wrong, hence why I want to get it right now

Is this shelf/slab end support for a desk tragically flawed in some way? The top will be supported along the back edge and by a post leg in the other front corner.

Thinking I'll just use something like this drilled and epoxied in for adjustable feet on the slab end. All in MFC.

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Neatest and least odd-looking would probably be to cut a quarter-circle around/off the relevant corner. Mark it with a compass or a fortunately-sized bowl/bucket/tin etc, and jigsaw it carefully. Or router with a circle jig if you are so inclined

It's taken fkin ages but our built in storage/alcove bodge is almost done. Skirting is just sat in place and needs fixing before filling and painting and the wardrobe was just pushed in last night so needs some adjustment to nail gaps. There's a slight ripple line where we didn't build the plaster up enough to meet the old board but it's only visible on sunny days. It's the same on the other side but in the reverse order with an old chest of drawers and not a dressing unit (both freebies) but with no ripple line. We we're originally quoted around £16k for custom mdf units, need to add stuff up but i think my dad and i have done this for less than £2.2k.

Ignoring the work that still needs doing and the wrong rug in place i'm pretty happy with it.

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Thanks - this makes sense.

Has anyone got the most no-nonsense guides to making the following please?

• Cabinet to hide electric meter in hallway
  
• Alcove "floating" shelves (See light timber frame screwed into wall covered with mdf/plywood/pine)
  

Nice work

Trying to get a handle on the switches needed for new kitchen

I know i need a bunch of light switches and sockets etc but not sure which appliances need a visible/accessible switch. I know my sparky will sort this out but I want to know what I'll need to order

Oven
built in micro
Extractor hood
hob
dishwasher

Do all of the above need a visible/accessible 'off' switch somewhere?

Have been making up a new gate for the back garden.

Mortice and tenons of the frame are done, slats milled and just need mortices for them and can glue up tomorrow on my lunch break.

Oak is from a semi local mill in their offcut pile and cost £20 with enough left over for a boot bench.

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They need accessible isolators. Ours are in the cupboard above the fridge.

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Painting floorboards - they're pine and have some stain and varnish on some of them. Do I need to get a that fancy floor paint or is there a cheaper alternative? I don't even know if I'm going to like it....

I think you want to search for “grid switch” isolators, that’s what we did and mounted in a cupboard on a pattress mounted to the back of the cupboard

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As above.
MK grid switches were on page 753 of the March '24 Toolstation catalogue.
They offer engraved modules for typical kitchen appliances, e.g., 'Oven' TS item no. 73651

A while ago people were asking for usb c sockets but the general consensus was that the fact BG & LAP hadn't released any meant you should probably avoid them.

Well BG & LAP have now released their usb c sockets incase anyone was looking for some:

https://www.rselectricalsupplies.co.uk/products/bg-nexus-screwless-brushed-steel-13a-double-usb-22w-a-c-ports-fbs22uac22g?variant=49178644250929&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8MG1BhCoARIsAHxSiQlzOspWMrP8Ep83_i8yfkNpUxxfF-4g7djg9MWjXpSA-ckzfnZcYCcaAg_GEALw_wcB

Nice work, are you doing the mortices by hand/chisel?

Yep. This is a hand tool project, because why not.

They are still a bit of a dubious proposition although you should get years of use out of a USB C one before it either fails and requires replacement. Normal sockets rarely fail and lots of examples exist from the 70's. It's a convenience for the end user but there's a trade off as always.

Do you think the failure point would be the USB socket alone, or is there something different in the design which would cause the whole socket to fail?