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• #5777
Not stupid at all, on my Brother I had SKS Bluemels with shallow groove taken out using a half-round file.
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• #5778
Great, thanks. Will try to dimple them first.
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• #5779
That’s what I wanted! Perfect
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• #5780
Good luck with it!
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• #5781
Anyone else had experience running pdw fenders and then fouling the back of an ultegra 12 speed front mech?
My clearance was fine with sram force but is super tight with the ultrgra mech… I’ve already removed the cable clip to try and make a bit more room but any other tips welcome… presume just crimping the guard a little might be the way to go?
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• #5782
Crimping, or using a Dremel to sand out a smooth groove?
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• #5783
Old skool guards fitted, my word what a fiddle-faddle! It's a good few years since I did this, and I don't think it got any easier. SKS guards work great but you sure pay with your work for the saving on purchase cost over eg PDW!
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• #5784
Ever installed undrilled/undimpled Honjos?
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• #5785
Ever installed undrilled/undimpled Honjos?
😂
They take as long as as much precision fitting as they did being made haha.
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• #5786
sks? my sweet summer child
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• #5787
So I've snapped two rear honjos at the seatstay bridge. Bit bored of it now. Direct mount into the bridge, I think i may be overtorquing them to try to stop the wibbly thing that single-stayed mudguards do on rough surfaces.
Can't decide whether to get another set, but before I crack that one, epoxy on some chopped bits of the broken one to make a boss around the stress riser there. Or maybe double stay the rear one (I feel like the wibble is because there's only one bolot ie the whole thing can rotate a bit around that). Or just fucking fit Gilles Berthoud.
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• #5788
Get an old mudguard and epoxy it on as a splint to fix your broken Honjo?
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• #5789
VO mudguards come with these (https://velo-orange.com/products/fender-reinforcement), which you can apparently buy on their own.
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• #5790
I've got a honjo one of those in the shed if anyone wants it.
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• #5791
Alloy guards do seem susceptible to fatiguing at mounting points. I have never had to replace a set of SKS guards once fitted. And no to the q on Honjos.
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• #5792
They're more likely to crack if the holes are untidy and not deburred, and if you don't use flexible washers (cork, leather).
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• #5793
If you have two broken Honjos, cut them up to male a Rinko fender:
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• #5794
sks? my sweet summer child
Y tho
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• #5795
Just cos they’re typically the easiest / most straightforward to put on, I’m not being super serious though they all have their challenges!
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• #5796
Are you, by any chance, forcing them into place to match your tyre radius, rather than shaping them beforehand?
That's most likely the reason why my own Berthoud cracked at the seatstay bridge.
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• #5797
I found the eyebolts esp fiddlesome. Also, drilling to fit rear mudflap and for direct mount to underside of rear bridge, and choosing spacers to ensure guard is centered on the wheel. None of this is required of the Bontrager NCS set but several users report that theirs snapped after a year or two. That definitely won't happen with the SKS product.
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• #5798
Has anybody ever found a satisfactory way to get these mounts to properly grip the struts?? A couple years in and they barely even hold them anymore with the bolt done up as tight as possible. Any help appreciated!
Edit, before anyone mentions, the washer/no washer doesn't make any difference
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• #5799
Add some heat shrink/electrical tape to the end of the stay?
Unsolicited, but I'd probably flip them, so the stays do not hit the fork blade. -
• #5800
Thanks! Electrical tape didn't work but heatshrink could be a shout, thank you. Was thinking a coke can shim but don't think I could get it to fit.
If they're metal, you can dimple them to make room for the stays: https://somervillebikes.wordpress.com/2020/03/12/how-to-install-metal-fenders-part-iii-installing-the-stays/.