Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Also any tips for installing on a 1990 externally routed frame and keeping everything looking neat!?

Check out the pages and pages of chat in MGoOF on that subject following this post: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/17384177/

Thank you.

So the shimano HG free hub body is a smaller diameter than the XDR, so I guess the hub is XDR compatible only unless the shimano come in variable diameters? It’s from a set of Fulcrum 800DB

That doesn't matter, as both freehub bodies will fit over the axle of the wheel. Fulcrum catalogue says you need freehub Ro-202 for your wheels. Should be easy enough to find online.

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Brilliant - thanks for the help. Freehub’s have always mystified me a bit so good to be forced to look into it. Turns out it’s not much more to just buy a whole new (used) wheelset from eBay, so might do that!

Really? It's £50 on BikeInn

How close am I to dying? This is on the back wheel.

The tyre itself has a patch on the inside so I'm fairly sure the tube isn't actually herniating in any way, just bulging a bit strangely.

Obviously a new tyre is due but I'm not in much of a hurry to stick this in the bin. Did the dynamo on it.

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Looks pretty fucked to me

I'm not in much of a hurry to stick this in the bin

You should be.

Even I would bin it.

I will keep riding on it and report in the inevitable blow out when it happens just out of curiosity.

I really despise throwing tyres out before they're completely worn.

I look forward to the Indra Report.

Yeah it's a bummer but the carcass needs to be good too.

I'd be surprised if that tyre doesn't have a bulge out of round which you'd feel, and you can probably feel a steering jiggle on the back too, right?

Because it's on the back it really isn't much noticeable. I only caught it from visual inspections.

I'm very tolerant of tyre issues on the back wheel just on the basis that they are fundamentally disposable components and that if you replace them one day, it's sods law that you'll slash a new ones sidewall open on a discarded bit of circular saw blade the next.

Might put a crisp packet inside it for extra strength.

I really despise throwing tyres out before they're completely worn.

Or well after.

I really despise throwing tyres out before they're completely worn.

Fair enough, and I'd agree - but I think our definitions of 'completely worn' may differ. I wouldn't ride another metre on that!

Just picked up a pair of forks off ebay and noticed paint cracking along the weld line. Any thoughts on ways to check If it's just the paint or welds failing short or removing the paint in that area?

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Tyre popping off the rim question here
Happened twice now
First time I thought it was the cheapo tyre, so binned that and changed to Schwalbe ones, new tube, new rim tape
Happened again, tube and tyre seem fine
No apparent distortion to the rim wall, clincher edge seems uniform around the inner wall
Rims are Weinmann 27x1 1/4, probably 1970’s-era, tyres at a modest 55/60psi
Any ideas? I’m stumped :(

Trying to connect a Park Tools INF-2 compressor head to our house line. Have been using the cheap one on the right but it's finally given up. Trying to find a coupler to go from the 3/8 NPT threaded end of the head to our European quick disconnect female adapter on the end of the hose. Struggling. Any ideas? Have read through this but still not exactly sure what I need

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/adapting-the-inf-2-for-use-with-different-air-coupler-standards

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One of these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111112332731
But just pop to anywhere that sells air or pneumatic fitting, take your bits with you. They’ll have something.

I solved problems like that all day at Pirtek. They're in the UK too

Got a question regarding q factor and left nds crank . Its a 24 mm spindle sram 8 bolt direct drive on my vielo with a evo 386 bb.
Can i get a 170 left arm with a wider q factor that will put it outward by 5 mm then i can take the 2 pedal washers off and have it more inline with my dodgy knee.?
Alternatively a evo 24 mm compatible 1 x crankset.

Clincher edge ? Way back in the 70’s I’m sure that won’t be a clincher /hooked rim ?

Do I have any (relatively cheap) options to run sub compact (46-30) on rotor 3d+ cranks? Or am I better off buying new cranks