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  • I've replaced the sanitary pipework under my kitchen sink, using a McAlpine 1-and-a-half bowl sink kit https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/sink-kits/bowl-and-a-half-sink-kit/

    And a flexi connector to get down to the stub of pipe that drops into the zone under the base cabinet: https://mcalpineplumbing.com/plastic-chrome-fittings/flexible-fittings-non-return-valves/flexible-connector-universal-x-plain-spigot/

    However, the sink now gurgles when draining. I think the fall of the flexi pipe after the trap is too steep, and this is syphoning the trap.

    I want to avoid the trap drying out, and also avoid the annoying gurgling noises. So I'm considering lowering the trap and using straight pipe and a 90 degree elbow instead of of the flexi (red line on the photo).

    Will this work to stop the syphoning? Or any other suggestions?


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  • Anti vac/anti siphon valve.

  • Any help converting this old wiring into existing brown, blue, green/yellow?

    The dotted lines are how I'm pretty sure it was lined up (definitely regret not taking the picture before).

    So my original assumption is black is blue (Neutral), red is brown (Live) and green is green/yellow (Earth) and that I should merge the 2 sets of black.

    But then I saw this post which largely makes sense but I'm not sure where the red cable would then go.

    https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/ceiling-has-3-sets-of-wires-for-lighting.567820/post-4923693

    -=-=-
    Edit
    -=-=-

    Okay, so more reading and watching and I think I get it now.

    Need to buy some connectors like these

    So the 3 red just go into the connector and nowhere else.
    Then the others go into a connector with 1 spare slot.
    The black with 2 in goes to blue and the 1 into brown (opposite of how I drew it then)


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  • What mask should I get for attic and basement work - tidying up loft and adding new insulation, and sawing up and fitting PIR in the basement. Did a short session with a basic disposable mask and didn’t feel it was giving me enough protection.

  • I have https://amzn.eu/d/01HBtBPs

    Available elsewhere.

    Given you can get a decent mask for <£30, people really shouldn't use those shit paper things.... Although I do grab them sometimes.

    If you search here there will be some other suggestions. The only downside of the one I posted for the job you're doing is that condensation does build up when you're working hard.

    If you use that mask remember to seal it once you put it on - push the filters down against your face and breathe in.

  • i'm currently suffering from a really sore throat and swollen lymph nodes down one side of my neck because of all the plaster dust hanging around even though i wore a mask while sanding the last couple of days. having a beard doesn't help i think.

  • Walls are looking pretty mint though after first base coat


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  • beard doesn't help i think

    Pretty much every discussion of £30 masks in this thread is followed by the suggestion of >£100 ones for beards. Unfortunately they prevent a seal and provide a huge surface area to store dust and other nasties for you to breathe in later.

    If you've got a big messy project you're probably best off removing it.

  • thankfully all that's left is painting, laying laminate, sorting out the edge trim around the window and door frames and building a quick and dirty floating desk from cls studs and cheap plywood (no budget for anything better at the moment but also easiest thing to replace later on).

  • Plus all the other little jobs you forgot!

  • Cheers. Got one of those to fit - hopefully it solves the issue.

  • you're right i then need to run conduit and fit the lights and sockets when i can afford it so we can just get an electrician in create the ring mains and wire stuff up.

    then there's a much bigger project to get my workshop on the other side of the new partition wall sorted. standard of finish is obviously going to be way lower in there though.

  • Nose clips, snorkel, mask and a rubber band.

    No idea if it works but it would be quite funny

  • So gloss paint recommendations please.

  • Zinsser All Coat is very easy to apply and strong once it's cured (7 days). Needs at least 2 coats though. Should be on top of a primer/undercoat despite the fact that it says self priming on the tin.

  • Best paint ever.

  • Is Zinsser the way to go for exterior too?

    We're painting our front door + surrounds and need to supply our own paint if we want colour other than brilliant white, which I think we do - do Zinsser do colour match?

  • I think you can get it matched. Front door I would recommend a very expensive paint. Mylands do an exterior grade paint that is really lovely to work with and you can get it tinted by papers and paints. It’s expensive even for a small quality but if you are planning an accent colour it’s worth it. There are a few sheen levels available.

    Just did a black gloss door in Zinsser All Coat, it’s primarily an exterior paint, and it came out well but the Matt black I’ve used previously was nicer to paint with and seemed to have a bit more levelling. I’ve painted a lot of white on windows and surrounds and it works very well. It’s better with a few coats of a thick undercoat for levelling though.

  • Thanks - Mylands sounds like a good shout for the door itself, will check them out. Tempted to go mylands for everything else too if it is better but need to work out how much I'll need...

  • What’s the best and longest-lasting mould-resistant clear silicone for bathroom use?

    Dow, Soudal, Mapei etc?

    Or are they all basically the same?

  • I would go with Soudal, who are a dedicated sealant manufacturer.
    The Dow brands, in the UK, are handled by Geocel, who had a sealant facility in Plymouth bitd, and may be manufacturing under license.
    Mapei are relatively new to sealants, filling a gap in their offering to wholesalers/pro-retailers who prefer to consolidate to as few suppliers as possible. I suspect the Mapei tube sealants are made by a large EU manufacturer, maybe even Soudal.

    Performance will not vary very much as it is hard to integrate much biocide into a clear sealant, both physically and legislatively.

  • Ive tried it all, cheap or expensive and feel a lot of it is the same. although CT1 have a new thing called BT1 which is apparently mould resistant, ive used it on a couple jobs recently. Not been there long enough yet to see if any mould comes on it.

  • @mespilus Thanks, will use Soudal.

    @konastab01 BT1 blurb reads well, but it gets a lot of bad reviews (especially with regard to its anti-fungal properties), and comes in white only...

  • Large panes, I guess it's easy to smash a window and just climb in? Our area used to be a bit rough BITD, less so now.

    TBH they're probably not that necessary these days but we decided to keep them anyway. OH opined that we should get rid of them a few days after I'd already taken them down to get refurbed, I lol'd

    @NotThamesWater You're not wrong. 👹

    Update: I've had no time to do anything yet, I've only had one day off in the last two weeks. 😴

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Home DIY

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