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• #677
sorry, mine's a work printer so can't really do custom stuff + i'm not in london's famous london anyway.
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• #678
Ask and the forum will provide
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• #679
Did someone sort you out?
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• #680
Surprisingly no.
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• #681
I'm not in London. But I can post you some.
I can print them in the morning.
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• #682
Having a thingiverse link makes it all much smoother
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• #683
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/17351879/
in case you were still looking
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• #684
They should be on there way. My wife was kindly doing a post office run for me today.
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• #685
Amazing. Very exciting.
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• #686
Has anyone tried using a slicer setting like fuzzy skin to give a better surface for painting onto. I'm about to start work on a massive G Scale train set for my garden.
Am planning on painting and just thinking of ways to minimise sanding etc.
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• #687
Not really an answer to your question (I can't find a fuzzy skin option in the version of Cura I use) but I've had some success using razor and scalpel blades as scrapers, followed by a brass brush. This leaves a slightly uneven surface that needs minimal sanding before painting.
G gauge EE3B shunter is a rather long term project, and really should have been tested before dealing with paint and detail. Paint is Tamiya acrylic, with soot and rust washes, aiming for a 'used' finish rather than factory fresh...
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• #688
Biggest issue you might have with fuzzy skin is that it's dependent on the slope of the surface. The jitter is only in the horizontal plane so it doesn't have any effect at all on completely upward facing surfaces.
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• #689
This looks amazing! Love all the ageing.
I'm not super super fussed on scale accuracy, because my 3 year old wont notice.
I printed the first body at 0.15mm layer height with just a normal finish and actually its come out great. A few coats of primer and paint (not sure which livery yet, but i suspect he will want the same as in his train book) and it will look spot on.
I need to get to work on the rest of it now. The body is jsut a thingiverse file, the rest im going to have to bodge together as the thingiverse version wont work scaled up.
Needs a couple of carriages too
The area for the track is cleared. just need to figure out the layout and actually get it all done.
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• #690
I'm starting to think I need a new printer - mine is a Chinese Prusa clone, delivered as a kit of parts before the first lockdown. It still works but is temperamental, not helped by flakey mains electricity out here in the sticks.
You're using a Creality K1 ? I'm assuming the loco body is made in several parts? The use of a 3 year old for scale can only ever be approximate... -
• #691
Can anyone recommend a 3d printers in London? I want to get a 3-4 foot tall statue printed. I already have the print file. thanks
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• #692
Noodled out a little out front light mount to attach to a wald basket yesterday.
Am slowly getting the hang of making fusion360 do what I want, mostly by googling how to solve problems as they arise. If anyone can recommend a good video on effective workflow it would be useful though - feel like I understand CAD in terms of very base functionality but I might be doing things the hard way.
@HatBeard you were bang on about the AMS for the Bambu. Went about 36 hours before I decided I 'needed' it in the arsenal, so that is inbound today!
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• #693
Got told I should have a cleat wedge to account for foot wonk. 30 minute model and 10 minute print later...
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• #694
Some excellent 3d printed stuff at eurobike. Mostly neat little things for displaying stuff.
Not impressed by this though. On a £15k Officina Battaglin
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• #696
how would i get a battery cover printed https://www.printables.com/model/140493-tile-pro-2020-replacement-battery-cover
is there anyone on here who could do it, or are there companies that do it?
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• #697
I can do that tomorrow
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• #698
Really? How much would it cost?
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• #699
It's probably less than £1 worth of filament
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• #700
My cat was attacking the rubber ring around the driver on my speakers. Now she can’t reach them.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5554295