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• #15552
Mystery solved!
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• #15553
I would be interested in seeing your solution to getting rid of the pentaclip when you do please. Hope alls good with you dude.
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• #15554
A bit of a pain to look at and give an opinion when the pic you shared is upside down!
Personally, I wouldn't go from a 6 to 2, unless I lived in a super flat area. 6 to 3 speed maybe - you save on the weight of the derailleur and that, but not the heavy internal hub.
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• #15555
A Line is solid without mudguards. As you say the disc acts to prevent the outer rubbing on the tyre in lieu of a mudguard.
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• #15556
I’m using telescopic post so it’s just replacing the stock top part with a normal post - 26.6mm diameter (or I could get the Joseph Kusoac, which is 27.2mm giving more options).
Some of the titanium aftermarket posts have built in clamps, but obviously £££.
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• #15557
.
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• #15558
hopefully ths works better...
I'm in SE London so realtively flat although more gears woud help getting up College Road, but i've managed that fine on my track bike.
I've seen some hacks to make a 3 speed derailleur work with a fiction shifter that looks promising -
• #15559
I swapped out my Brompton hub shifter for a Sturmey Archer friction one. Has a way more positive feel, but shifting is slower (lever has to travel more).
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• #15560
Use a Sturmey sls30 not a friction one’ friction Sunrace m90 for the 2 speed is ace tho
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• #15561
Oh my bad. I thought that was a friction shifter, pretty sure that's what I have. Will look into the M90 as my Sunrace lockout remote can be a bit sensitive.
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• #15562
Is it possible to run a thumbshifter on both sides for a 6sp?
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• #15563
Yes, I run that. 3spd for the hub, friction for the chain pusher (which I've actually changed to 3 cogs).
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• #15564
How's the chain pusher been with 3 cogs, did you have to change it from the stock?
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• #15565
I kept the stock pusher and it works pretty well even though it's fairly worn.
I went up a tooth on the biggest, down a tooth on the smallest, and that left me with a nice gap in the middle to fill. Highly recommended if you like to stick around a certain cadence. -
• #15566
You have me sold! Did you use the minimods or similar cog kit? Wondering if I could just play around with my current stock cogs, or even some standard shimano ones.
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• #15567
I used a cog kit but if you have spare cogs lying around definitely just use those.
If I remember correctly I had to file down the circle clip just a smidge to refit it with the new cogs, otherwise it was fairly painless. -
• #15568
Cool. Was thinking about cog spacing concerns, I've got a feeling the stock ones wouldn't fit, or that the spacing on some of the cassette sprockets I have might not be ideal. I'll experiment.
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• #15569
Use the m90 upside down on the right. Sls30 on the other side, works a treat. Upgrade the DR spring too while you are there.
Cable all the way through a pre 2017 anchorage and a barrel nut on the end
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• #15570
As I'm using the remote lever I already have a barrel nut and yeah, it's pre-2017. So SLS30 facing up and M90 down, so you can change both on the same side? Pretty clever.
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• #15571
hope everyone is doing well
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I started with this
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• #15572
which seemed like a brompton pimping gateway drug
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stickers removed
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bromfication seatpost added
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brooks c17 transferred from the oak
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• #15573
Dunno if it’s been mentioned elsewhere but Brompton have issued a notice on T Lines produced before June ‘24 due to steerer torque setting issues.
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• #15574
Winner! Kudos on Brompfication seatpost! I love mine and it’s just a cleaner look to the saddle area IMO.
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• #15575
Interesting, I wonder if this would have fixed the creaking issues on the bike?
When you spec a Brompton without mudguards they come with a little disc attached to that braze on which pushes the cable away from the tyre when steerering, not very commonly seen
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