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• #1402
UN300 BB died on me two months back (I discovered the issue when chainring started grinding my chainstays..) so changed it out to a secondhand UN55. Unknown vintage but seller seems to not have been the sort to abuse his equipment and BB seemed fine.
Recently changed out cranks from a Miche XPress to a Sugino RD2. Now getting a metallic click in the left pedal every time I switch from front pressure to back. Have swapped out the left pedal (seemed to do it for a bit before the clicking came back), checked for cracks in the crank, retightened BB/cranks (no torque wrench, but pretty damn high torque and I got comfortable before the crank swap), checked spoke tension and front QR.. anything else I'm missing before I blame the BB?
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• #1403
Getting a weird, not quite clicking but that’s the best word I could find, sound from my back wheel when the tyre is inflated anywhere near to correct pressure. Gets worse if I put weight on the rear and disappears if I weight over the front wheel. Wheels are Open Pro SUP Ceramic so I’m wondering if they’re not designed to take modern tyre pressure or something? Seems unlikely though…
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• #1404
But it doesn't happen if you ride the tyre at low pressure?
I'd check all the spoke tensions but if it happens whatever the tyre pressure it's probably still wheel bearings. Does it happen when coasting or pedaling or both?
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• #1405
Check the brake walls aren’t worn - mine clicked in an odd way just before i wore all the way through the brake track
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• #1406
Mmm, thanks both! I’ll double check the spoke tension and rims. Happens both when coasting and pedalling - seems to be entirely based on weight on the rear wheel with relatively high tyre pressure.
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• #1407
I'd guess at spoke tension, higher pressure decreases the spoke tension and maybe it's doing it enough to allow some movement where they cross and are at the bottom of the wheel rotation.
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• #1408
I didn't mention that because braking wasn't mentioned. I've done that a few times on rim brakes so it's pretty obvious what the issue is. If you can split the rim in two and not have your tyre explode you've nailed it :)
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• #1409
Been diagnosing a creaking ping from my Serotta - sounded like it was coming from the headtube area, so was paranoid about the carbon fork and potential interaction of my teeth/the floor. Was about to send off the fork for a carbon scan...
Just to be on the safe side, I did a full teardown and regrease of the headset to make 100% certain it was the fork, when fuck me if it wasn't the saddle clicking and it telegraphing the click down the top tube where it sounds like a creak.
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• #1410
Trying to work out the cause of a rumble in my drivetrain (Campag 10spd). It's from the sprockets (or that area) and doesn't seem to be a rubbing, more like every engagement/disengagement of a link with the sprockets has a slight bump that combines into a rumbling noise. It's mainly noticeable in the smallest 3 sprockets because the frequency of it drops to a level where it's really noticeable and feeds back through the frame and pedals.
Chain isn't worn according to my checker. Thoughts?
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• #1411
Jockey wheels? Or a tighter link in the chain perhaps?
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• #1412
Bike has developed a creak from the drivetrain (I'm guessing cranks) that generally only happens once at the start of my rides when accelerating for the first time. Bike then generally stays quiet for the rest of my commute. I do skid to brake and stand on pedals to accelerate from lights, but I haven't taken it up big hills to put massive torque on the drivetrain yet to see if it would reoccur mid-ride. I then discover that I can re-tighten the cranks (just a little) so I'm guessing cranks are coming ever so slightly loose; not sure if the answer is that I need to just put more torque when tightening the crank? Slightly worried about overtightening; have a 20cmish-long 8mm wrench and feel like I'm putting quite a lot of pressure into it when tightening the cranks as it is (I put it parallel to the ground, brace myself against the saddle and pull upwards) but no torque wrench to know for sure (it's on the shopping list but those things are not cheap).
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• #1413
Borrow a torque wrench.
Can you recreate the sound by standing on a single pedal with bike against wall? Or moving cranks side to side to check play. Can also try standing on crank arms to eliminate pedals and can check wheel by leaving feet off pedals and/or isolating it from chain, etc.
Clean and lube everything properly too.
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• #1414
Check your chainring bolts too.
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• #1415
Thanks for this, I had a creak right after changing the bottom bracket so faffed around in that area for ages, then I started to suspect the back end but only tightened the thru-axle.
I only have 1 tiny screw on the hanger and it was loose! The creak is gone now...I think. -
• #1416
Chainring bolts all tight, pedal bolts tight as hell, no play from cranks and standing on pedal at 6oclock on both sides and bouncing for a bit creates no sound. What in the wheel might cause a click? Generally the click only happens once at a start of a ride and then I don't tend to hear it after.
The chain is lubed and is generally silent; what else needs lubing?
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• #1417
Wheel could be moving in frame - loose bolt/qr. Spokes could be loose/moving. Rims could have piece of metal in them. Either of the wheel bearings could be dead or contain grit, although they'd tend to happen more often.
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• #1418
spokes move against one another?
Ah cool, got my fingers crossed for yiu