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For the weather strips, how did you handle the areas where the locks and hinges are? Just made discontinuities in the seal or is there some clever solution?
geb257-
Hinge side has a continuous strip; the routed channel just about clears the hinges.
Lock keep side: the keeps are too wide to accommodate a continuous strip, so these bits will have small pieces of the self-adhesive version of the same draught proofing product, to be applied after the door frame is painted.
ectoplasmosis
Thanks!
Deffo don’t have the time to do the actual work myself right now. I sourced all the parts (hardwood frame pieces. lock, ironmongery, Evva 4KS cylinder, draughtproofing, hinges, glazing etc), drew it all up and found a chippie to chop out the old frame, splice new pieces in, route the lock & keeps in and hang the door.
The weather strips are ‘Schlegel Q-Lon AQ21’, v good quality, and ubiquitously available, seals. Watch out for many fake replicas which quickly disintegrate. The real stuff isn’t expensive. It fits into a specially-sized rebated channel which needs to be routed into the door frame, using an expensive special router bit (anyone’s welcome to borrow mine), which makes retrofit difficult, but not impossible.
The bottom of the door has a Norseal NOR810 automatic drop-down seal that engages when the door is closed and retracts when opened. I actually bought two other types initially, both of which turned out to be shit designs which left big gaps for air to bypass the seals. The Norseal was the only one which actually sealed properly.