Home DIY

Oh right you want a caged one, I would avoid they're built with shit torrences for the precision required (chances are you'll cut straighter freehand with eye to markings), scribe internal and fill gaps of external corners

Is paint stripper a bad idea on wooden window frames? The time has come, I really need to restore ours. Strip, paint and reputty.

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Really don't think I would (but it does always go down here), you have more than one to do? And they are strung shash? It could be a tricky journey but where you need to strip back it can be done with small carbide scraper (with two different shaped blades, Hamilton or barco) and a big roll of sandpaper .. if the paint is sound adhered well - just leave it on and sand to repaint - spot priming and filling lips and edging is more the way I'd go..
It'll be very specialist to get chemical paint stripper out

I've got twelve to do 😳, not strung sash windows, they're push out hinged jobs.

There are a couple of coats of paint there, the top coat is coming off really easily, I don't think it got prepped very well, it's flaking straight off when I try to clean it.

We have security bars on the majority of the windows, they weren't in the best condition so I took them out and got them blasted and powdercoated this week. That revealed how bad the frames were. Isn't it great how you do one job and it then turns into three? We have fly screens that will need looking at next. 🤦🏼‍♂️

It's a big job so would be much easier with stripper. Is it really terrible for the wood? I really have no idea. I'm actually thinking about getting a professional in to do it but 💸.

Also, should I reputty before or after I repaint? Do you paint over putty? 🤷🏻‍♀️

i think this depends a bit if it’s oil on oil, oil on acrylic etc. I agree with the previous poster. sand and paint presuming it’s the same kind of paint, definitely prime if not or you don’t know. Putty is oil and sandy stuff so modern acrylic paint won’t stick to it neither will primer be up to it, potentially, so you’ll need to Zinser it. Tbh those windows look pretty ok. We did our windows in june and had left it to the point of there being leaks after big rain. We still haven’t painted the inside bc this we thought cous wait until we decorated.

Great deal on this 12v combi drill - £100 with BOSCH20

There's a bit of ambiguity about the size of the job.. if one of the 12 is actually a bay with 12 windows and fancy casement or if you're wanting to tackle interior at the same time as exterior - either method would work but I've half a mind to suggest the time & money might get better spent on a mediocre sanding set up, but don't be fooled it'll still feel like the majority is done by hand

These are not in bad shape. I would only strip them if they were rotten and needed repairs splicing in.

Take the loose paint off with some sandpaper and prime and paint.

Here are two of them. I'll have another look at them tomorrow and regroup. They're much worse on the outside than on the inside, the paint is flaking off everywhere.

@Airhead There are a few repairs that need to be done around the latches, other than that the frames themselves are in pretty good shape.

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uncle was visiting today so he gave me a hand making a start on the partitioning for my garden office. annoyingly the cityshittylink driver who picked up my wickes order of all the timber and door from a store less than a mile from my house apparently was incapable of delivering it that far and lied about attempting it before returning it back yesterday so i had to walk to wickes myself to sort it and then carry enough timber and a door lining kit back on foot balanced on my shoulder just so we could get as far as we did. (4 weeks of stronglifts paying off already).

got two more studs to put in and then add noggins as appropriate when more wood arrives. then i get to try and hang my first door ever.

also got the old ceiling with all the records welded to the plastic cladding down and glad i did it as there was fuck all insulation up there so will do it properly and not freeze to death in the winter now.

got a few decisions to make on how i want to finish the walls, ceiling and floor now. then i need to sort out where power and lights will go, prep them and get to work building the room out.

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OK, so on reflection the insides might be okay with a deeper clean but the outsides definitely need to be done.

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I would be stripping those with an infrared stripper. Tricky not to crack a pane of glass though. It can be done by hand with a carbide scraper/chisel but then you would just scrape the worst bits and blend them in by sanding.

They need new putty too. I would use an acrylic putty, real putty takes months to dry before you can paint it and in some places birds like to eat it when it's soft.

I'll use a chemical stripper, I know I'll crack the glass with a heat gun.

Then I've gotta get onto the back of the house, it got painted six years ago by the people we bought it off but I think old mate went straight over the old paint without any prep. As it's already delaminating I'm hoping this will make my life easier. North facing so insane UV where we are, nothing survives.

I'll pay a painter to do the inside of the house.

And yeah, as previously mentioned, new putty all round.

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The security bars came back from the blasters/powdercoaters looking great, cheaper than expected too.

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Just curious, why are there bars on the windows? Is it an animal thing?

It's not for keeping things out...

if i lived in the place that spawned hippy i'd bar my windows too.

that's a deep cut

You don't need many bars to keep him out though.

my MiL’s shower mixer tap closes itself when you open it - unless you hold it open for a couple of seconds until the water is flowing fully - I assume it’s some kind of valve gone awry - but not sure exactly what to look for if i start to take it apart.

it’s this one fwiw: https://omnires.com/en/product/shower-bath-mixer-for-concealed-installation-pm7435gr

here’s a tech-spec/diagram: https://omnires.com/media/file/2071/PM7435GR_instrukcja.pdf

any ideas/tips much appreciated!

Those shower/bath mixers use water pressure to hold the valve in the shower position.

#featurenotabug

Some good Bosch deals here for those invested in the system, 50% off in some cases: https://www.ebay.co.uk/e/home-garden/up-to-50-off-bosch-tools?_sop=40&usecase=EVENTS

finished my wall. noggins aplenty. took fucking ages but plan is for electric rad on lower half on this side and a tool wall on the other so would rather it was solid as fuck.

also took delivery of plasterboard, more timber, some plywood, underlay, laminate flooring, acoustic insulation and a cheap door that is fine to fuck up trying to get it to fit in the stupidly low frame.

next up is plasterboarding the inside of the wall to help contain mess from getting in among all the mountains of shite in the bit behind. then have a crack at insulating the ceiling voids and giving it a good old college try to plasterboard the ceiling by myself using screwed in supports on the walls and a couple of plasterboard jacks. i have spare boards for when i inevitably drop one.

made a rough sketch in fusion to help me figure out probable layout so i have a pretty solid plan to work to now.

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I'm refitting our main bathroom and having a wobble on the shower over bath.

What are people's thoughts on concealed Vs exposed showers? I don't really want to have to pull the wall apart in 5 years if something goes wrong, but I do have a perfect stud wall in which to have a concealed shower.