• Thanks!

    Deffo don’t have the time to do the actual work myself right now. I sourced all the parts (hardwood frame pieces. lock, ironmongery, Evva 4KS cylinder, draughtproofing, hinges, glazing etc), drew it all up and found a chippie to chop out the old frame, splice new pieces in, route the lock & keeps in and hang the door.

    The weather strips are ‘Schlegel Q-Lon AQ21’, v good quality, and ubiquitously available, seals. Watch out for many fake replicas which quickly disintegrate. The real stuff isn’t expensive. It fits into a specially-sized rebated channel which needs to be routed into the door frame, using an expensive special router bit (anyone’s welcome to borrow mine), which makes retrofit difficult, but not impossible.

    The bottom of the door has a Norseal NOR810 automatic drop-down seal that engages when the door is closed and retracts when opened. I actually bought two other types initially, both of which turned out to be shit designs which left big gaps for air to bypass the seals. The Norseal was the only one which actually sealed properly.

  • Yeah, I saw those drop down seals, they look to be a good solution, especially for wonky Victorian properties.
    How thick are the double glazed units?

  • The glazing specs are all on the label in my last post; they’re ~24mm total thickness, which meant having to build out the rear of the door with beading to accommodate.

    You can of course spec thinner glass and/or spacer, but then you lose thermal performance/security.

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