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• #7127
It depends on the bike. I'm pretty sure I was running 32T with the shortcage Ultegra Di2 RD before I went to the long cage version and ran a 36T. I now run 40 and 42T with the shadow cage version of the Ultegra RD and still no Wolftooth. Longer chain and it's worth a try before buying a Wolfie. Oh, at some point I also went to 46/34 chainrings so that might have helped with the massive cassettes.
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• #7128
other thoughts/am I going to die?
Yes, you're going to die. No, a few frayed fibres at the top of the fork will probably not be the cause, unless the cause of death is pneumoconiosis. That part of the fork isn't doing any hard work, especially if it's out of the top of the stem as it should be.
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• #7129
I knew you’d be along to confirm my mortality and unavoidable demise
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• #7130
hi again, i meant that is very neat compared to the butchery that i have previously got away with
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• #7131
Looking to replace the headset bearing cover on Ridley CX bike. It's currently an integrated FSA headset with built in cable hanger.
I'd like to replace with a bearing cover that doesn't have the cable hanger in - any suggestions as to which item I need?
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• #7133
Easiest way is to measure, then buy one of @gbj_tester 's bearing covers. FSA have millions of headsets, some are very OEM specific so I don't think anyone will be able to point you to a specific FSA product without at least pictures and measurements.
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• #7135
You still need to contact me to sort out that ugly top cap🙂 Will exchange for your hanger cover, as I happen to want one for one of my projects.
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• #7136
Ha! Will do. Let me get up and running with my new crown mounted cable stop and I'll be in touch.
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• #7137
Hey All, any clues on removing this inner section from a Paul Milnes / Ridley carbon fork steerer? Seems fairly stuck in and is preventing the installation of new fork expander. Didn't want to force it in case it's not supposed to be removed.
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• #7138
You need to hook out from the bottom, the bent end of a spoke what I use most often.
If you can position it upside down then gravity will help but it’s not always necessary.
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• #7140
Yeah, looks like 2 pieces at the top of the steerer that wedge against each other maybe and I think the ‘nut’ has dropped further down (can see it through the centre).
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• #7142
No bother.
I end up fishing out about one or two of these a week because a lot track riders are swapping between drops and tri bars so regularly that bungs falling apart is a fairly regular occurrence.
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• #7143
Wrote up a blog post about how to permanently replace the silly Q-Loc thru axles Suntour specify on forks like the Raidon. It's expensive but has given big peace of mind knowing that I'm not going to end up stuck somewhere unable to take my front wheel out and put it back in again.
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• #7145
I think it's how they all used to be until they figured out how to make them joined up together in the factory.
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• #7146
Thanks to all replies, will give it a go and report how it went.
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• #7147
Best bit about those forks.
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• #7148
I mean the best thing about them for me is that they came on a hardtail mountain bike with a dropper post and hydraulics and upgraded controls for 500 quid round the corner from my house, and have been perfectly fine, q loc axle aside.
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• #7149
Arghhh, why won’t the brake caliper return?
Campag Centaur skeleton
New return spring fitted (the old one broke)
Stripped, cleaned, refitted
New cable
New cable outer
Taken the whole cockpit back on the bars with new tape
Nothing, literally nothing fixes the caliper sticking after the lever is pulled
Pretty close to taking a hammer to all the things
Have I missed anything? -
• #7150
Does it return with no cable attached? If so it is definitely in the cable. I would guess that it's where you cut the outer. I fyou didn't clean the cut properly, theere's a chance some of the outer is preventing the inner from sliding through.
I think they're saying it's fine.