Home DIY

Having fitted double glazed units 2/3 that size, I'd say you're right there.
Sorry no help at all!

Those push fit things connect all the wires inside to each other. You need a separate one for each wire. Or alternatively something like this that has three separate connections inside.
https://www.toolstation.com/in-line-spring-lever-connectors/p45902

Appreciated, three now fitted.

Similar story in the double switch box? Or am I going to need to connect wires togther to keep the 'circuit' going?

Yes, if it has wires passing through it they need to be connected in the same way inside the blanking plate. Put the same colour wires in each connector.

Ah shiet, sorry to hear that!

As @lynx says, when we had quotes to fix the failed double glazing on the front of our house, the labour involved to properly desiccate, re-gas and re-seal was several times that of the cost of replacement units.

We actually have the same type of rooflight as you in 3x places, hoping it’s not a trend lol!

So you found a company who would quote on the re-gassing? Can you share deets please?

The rooflight company said it’s very rare, sounded genuine so I’m sure you’ll be fine. TBH I imagine it popped when we were manhandling it through the house and onto the roof. Problem with a replacement is, really, it should be craned in 🤯

At least it’s triple glazed so we still have argon & air gap.

Ah, this was ~9 years ago, just after I bought the house.

The only place I can remember is Sunlight Glazing on Lea Bridge Road.

I think your main issue is gonna be finding someone willing to find where the leak is, drill accurately through your GRP-coated rooflight upstand, through the sealant and warm-edge spacer, re-gassing then reliably re-sealing the lot.

Anyone know of a really cheap and cheerful top mount bifold door rail? Or any suggestions for a simple hack? The cheaper the better.
For ref it’s for a bin store I’ve made, so a degree of jankiness is more than acceptable

12mm ply for kitchen carcasses; okay or needs something thicker?

18mm ideally.

12mm is pretty flexy over any distance/under any weight.

18mm is decent.

i’m into this today. it’s gotta get worse before it gets better!

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How long into that did you think ‘fuck I wish I hadn’t started this’

Don't worry it'll be worth it.

They'll look lovely once you've painted them.

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omg I’m still at it, went to buy a belt sander because 70s paint hard as fuck and doesn’t bubble under heat.

yes, very quickly.

going to oil bare wood not paint

Someone posted a while back about using paint stripper on stone / brick mullion on their bay windows / fills - does anyone recall who / where / when?

I seem to remember them covering the thinner with something, but don't recall what.

Might have been me; I used “Peelaway 1” to get rid of multiple layers of paint from the stonework on the front of our Victorian house. Worked perfectly.

If it helps I have half a big can of paint panther which is supposed to be the best thing since nitromors stopped making the good stuff. I’m in Camberwell

That’s a very elegant solution. 👏🏼

How is the end piece of wire attached?

Can’t wait to see that grain

this was an incredibly difficult job. The paint was at least five layers thick and the last two layers, from the 70s, were almost enamel. Paint panther and heat gun were useless, ended up getting a belt sander and holding it up sideways. Once the majority of paint was off I borrowed a disc sander. Another difficulty was the wood itself is extremely soft so you have to go full bore on the paint and then pull back at the right moment to avoid dings. I didnt do a perfect job, I’m waiting on getting some osmo raw matt to oil it up: anyone know anywhere in SE it that does it?