-
Cutting the bridge down too much can lower the break angle of strings over the saddle though, so it's a slightly bodgey way of doing it.
I'm going to investigate this bolt-on theory. I can see the tip of a threaded rod and a tapped plate on the inside of the heel block, and there's a tell-tale filled-in bolt hole on the outside on the heel block. Will pick away at that and see what's inside.
Sparky-
Fair enough, if it's bolt-on it should be quite accessible.
I had to resort to bridge shaving on my Gretsch as the neck has already been reset and the action was just not good. The outcome was very good though.
At the end of the day shaving the bridge is no different than lowering the saddles on a Stratocaster really!Sidebar... if I were going to pull the frets on a Squier Stratocaster what width would I expect the fret slot to be... I want to order some maple or cherry veneer ready to fill the slots ahead of time... Google suggests 0.58mm, is my best bet to get some 0.6mm veneer (if I can't get 0.58mm) and hope I can wedge it in with the relief off the neck?
Actually I may have not Googled correctly... it seems like fretless conversion shims are actually a thing... probably handy even if they are a slight rip off compared to buying blank sheets.
Nahguavkire
I'd certainly start with the bridge, there shouldn't be any need to go near the neck, even if you had to replace the bridge it would probably be less messing...