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• #8927
you need something like BBT-9
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• #8928
This is why end caps you can pull off are great
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• #8929
This is why 6-bolt rotors are great
FTFY
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• #8930
I've had a similar problem with the external CL lockrings on Scribe and Fulcrum/Campag wheels with SRAM road rotors. On the Scribes I swapped to the cassette tool internal lockring, as even with an open BB spanner tool like the BBT-9, I couldn't get much purchase, even my LBS struggled.
But try that, a BBT-9 or similar like @amey suggested.
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• #8931
This is my preferred tool https://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools/bottom-bracket-tools/bb-wrench-48-5mm-44mm.html
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• #8932
This - I found the cassette tool internal lockings much easier generally in this situation (with the right lockring tool)
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• #8933
Tektro HDC330 hydro calipers to shimano levers? Ain’t gonna happen is it?
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• #8934
Probably worth a bash.
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• #8935
If it's integrated handlebars as well you're in for a lot of fun. I'd rather ask for a quote first
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• #8936
I swapped to the cassette tool internal lockring
this. is. the. way.
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• #8937
Yeah, I forgot to add that the rivets on the sram rotors seemed a tad high and exacerbated the issue.
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• #8938
Cheers all, yeah I've always used internal lockrings before and they're much better. The external galfeer is fine on the front wheel as the end cap doesn't foul the BBT-19 tool but the rear end cap is too deep. I might just swap out the rear external lockring for an internal one...
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• #8939
It will probably work, swapped lots of broken tektro levers with shimano levers connected to tektro calipers.
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• #8940
Cheers both @snottyotter I’ll give it a go, a friend has a snapped Tektro lever I have a spare Shimano lever. A match made in, well fingers crossed.
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• #8941
I want to install hydro disc brakes for the first time, but not the last. I havent got the specific tools, but would like to buy them so that I can do this anytime in the future. Below is a picture of what I have (GRX-400 set).
Though they come pre-bled, I assume I will have to cut them to size if I want a lot of excess cable in the front. What tools do I need & what tools will make my life a lot easier doing it? I have a 3D printer for any useful printable stuff.
Need:
8mm metric open end spanner wrench
Gloves, rags, isopropyl alcohol
Olive needle driver / hose cutter (read good things about this ZTTO over at Escape, in terms of value for money)
Bleed kit - any recommendations?
Shimano mineral oil
Shimano hose fitting needle - I think I'll be cutting off the preinstalled one when im cutting the hose short
Shimano olives - I think I only need this if I were to remove the cable from caliper in the futureAm I missing anything?
Looking at their serials it looks very much like the calipers are interchangable, is that right? Having grown up outside of the UK, I am planning on connecting the brake levers on the correct side :)
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• #8942
That’s a pre-filled kit. You won’t need to do a full bleed. You may want to top it up and burp it, especially if you cut the hoses. You can cut the hose just fine with a sharp craft knife.
If you shorten you can slice the offcut open and reuse the barb.
(On a small frame you may also consider removing the pigtails from the levers)
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• #8943
Great, thanks for the info! To remove the pigtails (it is a small frame) I could just open the coupler & the bleed port on the lever ensuring the lever is in a higher position than the coupler & drain it, right? Then once I removed that bit of hose from the shifter, I just carry on as if they werent there to begin with.
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• #8944
You can cut the barb out of the old hose if you want to re-use it rather than buying a new one. Just use the same craft knife you used to trinm the hose to carefully slice down the length of the brab and it should just peel out.
I have the other ZTTO barb tool which is very good, really worth the money over holding the hose in some mole grips and trying to hammer a barb in.
As others have said, a bit of extra fluid and and cup will be plenty for a pre-bled brake kit. -
• #8945
You'll need a new barb and olive (it's the BH-90 ones, olive are the same the barbs come in 2 sizes) as the brake hose nut will be in the way.
Undo the nut partially, about 3 turns or so, then wiggle the hose loose, don't undo the nut fully as you'll risk splattering your wall with hydraulic fluid.
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• #8946
Is there a go to disc rotor brand?
I’m new to this. I’m picking up some second hand Shimano SLX brakes that I need to buy pads and rotors for so any help is appreciated. -
• #8947
What use?
Shimano is fine, have been running RT 71 SLX on my daily with Shimano resin pads and have not been left without bite when needed.
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• #8948
Is there a go to disc rotor brand?
Aztec, Jagwire and Clarks are the long established aftermarket brake consumables brands, any of them plus the brake manufacturers Shimano, SRAM,Hope, Magura and Tektro/TRP will be fine for rotors. Any of the above plus EBC for pads.
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• #8949
Just remove the hose and try not squeeze the lever. Surface tension / air pressure will stop the fluid leaking out, and only a tiny amount of air will get in. You probably want to do this just before you install the hose for real.
You'll also want to retrieve the unsqueezed olive that's been preinstalled inside the coupler behind the nut.
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• #8950
Shimano BR-R317 caliper alright or should I keep looking though my parts bin of something else? I’m sure there’s an avid something or other in there somewhere. Oh. It’s for the front of a (shh) Tracklocross build.
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Can anyone help advise a better tool for this scenario? I’m using my Park Tool Baby-19.2 to torque the lock ring on my Galfer rotor. Fine on the front but on the rear the lack of internal depth on the tool means it is hitting the wheel axle before it can get the lockring to adequate torque.
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