Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Many thanks for the help. I think it is italian (both shells are conventionally threaded the same way), so with a bit of luck you think this should fit...?

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/vp-monoblock-steel-ita-bottom-bracket/137578044/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=10777869&country=uk&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1qO0BhDwARIsANfnkv_slO0XTuUcPwUqXQV6Y7woL4PhnBDOAee7jsMOgHCwqsd3Vfobk8oaAlFHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

It is just for a pub bike, and I'm a novice mechanic, so anything that works will do

with a bit of luck you think this should fit...?

Yes

Putting a mongrel groupset together. Will R7000 brake levers pull the right amount of cable for me to use with 7900 calipers?

Thanks in advance.

68mm bottom bracket, MTB cranks. Any reason why I can’t move both spacers to the non drive side?

HT2?

If so they should be three spacers.

I thought it was 2x2.5mm?

One of the driveside ones is there in place of an e type front derailleur, then there’s one 2.5mm either side to make up the difference between 68 and 73mm shells.

Edit: I’m assuming that you aren’t using an e type front derailleur because…well, who the hell is?!

So there is one each side. I’m using a side pull MTB front derailleur to give me more tyre clearance, a road brifter and 2x MTB HT cranks.
The derailleur can shift to the big ring but only in perfect conditions.
I’m thinking move both spacers to the non drive side to move the chainring inboard but am worried the BB will be damaged.

Picture of todays less than perfect conditions for reference (no I don’t want to go 1x)

1 Attachment

I’ve run more of the spacers on the nds than there should be a few times and I’m still here to post this. I still say you are missing a spacer though and I reckon three spacers on the nds might be pushing it.

Isn't the real problem that your dérailleur is too far away from the chainrings?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/thorn-eccentric-front-mech-shim-286-to-349-black-plastic-hand-finished-split/

I used one of these to run road shifters and front mech with a 2x MTB chainset.

Have a pair of black anodised TB14s incoming for a rim brake bike. They will wear with braking, but is it worth using a different pad, e.g. https://www.condorcycles.com/products/campagnolo-shamal-mille-blue-brake-pads to slow the process?

I suspect I already know the answer to this, but the 1" threaded fork I bought appears to not have enough thread on it, i.e. the adjusting cup of the headset only goes to the end of the thread and there's still a 2" gap before the top of the headtube. I need different forks, don't I? Guessing there's no way of machining more thread onto the fork, right?

Guessing there's no way of machining more thread onto the fork, right?

Threads can be extended but it's tough work and can be hard on tools so expect to pay a fair bit to have it done.

Right. New forks it is, then.

Unless - can I just bung the top of a 1" ahead threadless headset on it instead?

Use a spacer under the locknut while you source some new forks? It'll look shit, but 🤷‍♂️

That won’t work, not enough threads to get the adjusting cup to the bearing.

Could do that. Threadless top cup, spacers, locknut on the thread.

Only problem odd the locknut won’t lock against a threadless top cup. Two locknuts tightened against each other could work.

Be aware though that the lock nuts usually have a lip which will prevent them threading right down the steerer, this can be filed away though.

I might give that a try. Feels cheaper than buying another set of forks (now on inappropriate set #2).

Right. New forks it is, then.

If you've got the forks already and a shop/builder with the tools nearby, I'd probably ask how much first. It's not the most fun job in the world but I'd imagine it'll end up cheaper than most new forks.

Where are you based? Rat Race in SE London has extended fork threads for me before. Worth a quick call if that's local for you.

I'm just around the corner from them. Might call in and ask when I nip to the shops shortly. Cheers.

Swiss top did some blue pads that were supposed to be less abrasive. I'd go with carbon pads, they're usually softer than standard ones

Thanks for that, good logic and I have some spares so will give them a go

good logic

Not necessarily. Rim scouring is done by flakes of alumina embedded in the pads, not by the rubber itself. Soft pads hold the alumina abrasive particle better than hard pads.

What happens with a carbon brake track?