Gravel / Gravé / Gnarmac / Groad / ATB

Nah, doesn't need to be weird shit. I'm just running GRX Di2 on it and it's mostly replacing the Tarmac (and maybe the Resolution if I like it enough)

Bought from you in late 2016, still going strong!

Just got back from a gravel trip to find a section of my carbon rim that is cracked. The area around the size of a thumbnail feels spongey to the touch. They are Prim Kanza rims.

It's not currently affecting the wheel's performance and I've probably ridden over 100k since it happened without knowing it.

Is it a write off? Is it something that would normally be covered by warranty (the wheels came secondhand with the bike). I'm currently in BC and would ideally patch it up somehow and carry on, but feel like that could be a very bad idea given how remote some of the riding is.

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That is new wheel and no warranty for what it looks like an impact. Doesn't matter as it's secondhand anyways. It will fail eventually, get a new wheel from somewhere along the way

Cowbell 2, 44cm, black

Some deep scratches from the hood mounting bolt/clamp but otherwise I’m ok used condition.

£15 if you want them or I’ll trade for On One Mike/Mary/similar swept back bars

Yeah for sure, I more mean I made a silly choice only going 2cm wider. Sort of a halfway house that doesn't benefit either use case. Nice bars though, particularly like the drops as they're quite long (not sure if that's the right term) so offer lots of positions and it feels very secure descending off road in them.

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Is it a write off

100% or your teeth will be when it eventually gives way totally.

feels spongey to the touch

😬

Thanks, I think I'm going to leave it sit for another few weeks (LOLz) and look for something with Di2 cable routing like the Roval or Easton bars. Would be nice if handlebar makers mentioned compatibility with clip-one aerobars.

Ah, I get you.

I mean, everyone just adapts to whatever they have anyway and if it's gnarly enough that bar width matters you're probably walking anyway.

Apologies for being a bit clueless, I've not been following this thread.

Someone I know has an Arkose and he wants to know if he can put 700x47 marathon tours in there.

Unfortunately I don't know which year it is. I will see the bike on Monday so can update then.

I know current models come with 45 tyres and can take up to 47s

My question is have they always had the clearance?

Thanks

Older ones would fit 40-ish

Thanks.

I'm talking about quick releases old. Probably OK if the bike have thru axles AFAIK

What’s the actual bars you’ve got? All carbon PRO bars have been bar end compatible for a few years now

For the first time in a while, I was going to take the gravel bike out considering the weather. Rear tyre completely flat. Tubeless innit? Rode indoors instead.

Wondering why it keeps deflating so quickly lately. It was holding air with minimal losses for weeks, until I decided to 'mess' with it (so could be the valve). So that's Saturday afternoon plans sorted.

Still enough sealant inside?

Got very wet in Epping Forest today. Hardly any walkers though.

I can imagine. I wasn't planning on mud, more that it was my best bike for the weather. @kjlem that was my first guess., but I haven't seen any sealed holes and it can't have been that long ago since I last topped up.

I think they're whatever I wrote above. They don't have the holes at the ends and having looked on the Shimano site don't actually mention internal Di2 routing. I've not even looked, I'd just left it with a shop while I was riding another event and now I'm broken I don't care to look yet.

It's the gravel stage of Le tour today. Hope you are all watching

The carbon ones don’t have the holes at the bottom because the di2 wires go fully internally. It’s only alu ones that have holes because I think they have filler around the shifter clamping areas to make them stronger (probably also to make you buy the carbon ones)

I real easy way to check is to take a brake inner and run it through one end and it should come out the other, if it does you’re all set to go.

You need one wire from junction box A to the right shifter, one wire from the right shifter to the left and then one more super long one which will come out the bars from the left shifter to junction box B

I wonder then if the issues was going from the bars to Junc B? I don't have the Crux handy but maybe it doesn't have Di2 port up front or the stem on it didn't allow the DI2 cable egress? Where would it normally run from?

To be honest it might be a blessing in disguise. If I stick a 5-port under the stem and use alu bars that support clip ons I can add/remove Di2 fitted aerobars. Im still in two minds about what I'm diong with it, ie. keeping the Mason or not

Problem is if there was an issue fitting a a di2 wire into the frame to the junction box B from the shifter, you’ll have the same issue no matter what junction box A you use, bar end or under the stem.

I’ve not built a new crux yet but I’d assume it’s like the old SL6 tarmacs and you need to fish the di2 wire into the hole the rear brake goes in, but needs to be fitted before the hose.
Then heatshrink it to the hose and into the bars, it looks so damn clean when done well

Sounds like a great case for etap