Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Thanks. JB weld? Or something else?

Alu badge on a painted frame

The most important step is surface preparation, then Araldite Fusion (no mess, no pretending you're ever going to be able to use the surplus from a bigger pack, dries clear so the bead at the edge is aesthetically acceptable)

Turns out mine was JB Weld too.
Araldite sounds easier, and if tester recommends it…

Hot glue gun works pretty well for this type of stuff.

Thanks all. Will try the sugru first and then up the stakes if it fails. IPA wipe down for surface prep first, ofc.

IPA wipe down for surface prep

That will make sure any oils are spread in a thin even layer over the whole surface🙂 Scuff up the surfaces with some emery cloth/wire wool/Scotch Brite™ if you actually want your adhesive to adhere.

Water test to ensure all oils gone?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7onZGqrYyY

Noted. Thank you.

Cool video ^

This is my bike.
https://vitusbikes.com/products/vitus-energie-evo-force-etap-axs-cyclocross-bike-07e7

I want to gear it down for bike packing and I think i'm correct that the rear mech can't handle more than 36 teeth, so a smaller chainring seems to be a sensible option.

It's currently 38t x 10-36t.

Would any of these chainrings work and is there much difference between them? Also should I go for 36t or 34t? My right knee has been a bit twingy lately for context.

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-t-type-eagle-x0-dm-offset-3-mm-chainring/139580516/p?queryID=ec63bd9587492fb9264beec8ac6c7dfd&buscador_search&_gl=1vbpy9k_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwp4m0BhBAEiwAsdc4aFltuWTiMpMWCqMw4fxSCUtqFb9h6QvRCDYm-03iD9qApyHpV7m_rhoCJlMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-t-type-eagle-xxsl-dm-offset-0-mm-chainring/139580518/p?queryID=ec63bd9587492fb9264beec8ac6c7dfd&buscador_search&_gl=1*vbpy9k*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwp4m0BhBAEiwAsdc4aFltuWTiMpMWCqMw4fxSCUtqFb9h6QvRCDYm-03iD9qApyHpV7m_rhoCJlMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-t-type-eagle-xxsl-dm-offset-3-mm-chainring/139580519/p?queryID=ec63bd9587492fb9264beec8ac6c7dfd&buscador_search&_gl=1vbpy9k_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwp4m0BhBAEiwAsdc4aFltuWTiMpMWCqMw4fxSCUtqFb9h6QvRCDYm-03iD9qApyHpV7m_rhoCJlMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-t-type-eagle-xx-dm-offset-3-mm-chainring/139580517/p?queryID=ec63bd9587492fb9264beec8ac6c7dfd&buscador_search&_gl=1vbpy9k_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwp4m0BhBAEiwAsdc4aFltuWTiMpMWCqMw4fxSCUtqFb9h6QvRCDYm-03iD9qApyHpV7m_rhoCJlMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sorry for the huge URLs. Thanks.

Hot glue gun works pretty well for this type of stuff.

Strong second on this - hot glue should be permanent enough, but it's also totally reversible.

Sorry for the huge URLs.

Look for the first question mark and delete it and everything after it.

http://tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-t-type-eagle-xx-dm-offset-3-mm-chainring/139580517/p

The 3mm offset ones will probably work, but can't guarantee it. SRAM sometimes shape their chainrings very closely to the cranks, so different models can be incompatible. The chain may also get very close to the crank in the bigger gears.
I think your better options are: SRAM Eagle crank and chainring. This will increase your Q factor, and you will need to get a new chain, but it's not too expensive.
Or get a Rival FD and outer and inner chainrings.
Or, Garbaruk have a 36T chainring that will fit.
It's pretty unusual to get a bike spec with 1x and 10-36t, it really is a dedicated CX race bike.

my wife has an etap group, short cage rear mech, 50-36 on the front.

How large a cassette could I fit on the back? 11-34 is too large for the mech to handle, 11-28 is totally fine. I've ordered an 11-30, but could I get away with an 11-32?

I have a wolftooth roadlink, but obviously this does't help with the chain wrap (which was the issue with the 11-34)

Never worked with an eccentric bottom bracket before so would appreciate some help as to what I’m looking at here. My Dawes tandem recently developed some play (about 2-3mm movement give or take) at the BB area, and I suspect I need to tighten it up. We have ridden it for a while because we were organising a wedding and I couldn’t be arsed to fettle and hope we haven’t done too much damage.

Gave it a quick try today with my usual crank 8mm Allen key but it doesn’t bodge in either direction. Before I put more force into the key I thought to check - it seems to have another thing on top of it that takes what I’m guessing is a 10mm allen key - is that some sort of lockring I have to undo before I can tighten the crank? Is there a brand for this BB and if I’ve knackered it, how difficult/expensive is it to replace?

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Need to identify where exactly the play is, could be between crank arm and bb spindle, bb and the eccentric insert or the eccentric insert and the shell.

Each will need fixed in different ways.

Think play is between eccentric insert and shell. In that when I move the crank the whole silver bit moves in the shell.

That'll be the self extracting part, leave it on and try harder, it'll go (hopefully) get easier then harder again as you undo the 8mm bolt against it to remove the crank.

You'd sort that by tightening the grub screws that are located on the bottom of the shell.

Definitely check the chain tension first though and if you've been riding with it loose then you might want to strip it all down and check that the insert (or the shell) hasn't worn.

I'd have a good look at this while you're in there

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Anyone tried the Wheeltop electronic shifting “groupset”?

I’m thinking about getting the shifters and mechs to replace the very tired Campagnolo ones on the bike I keep in Germany.

My understanding is the mechs can be set up to work with any cassette and chainring.

Possibly i may answer my own question here, guess I'm just asking all if there's an obvious pratfall I might miss in my plan that might mean I fuck up a difficult-to-replace part.

Problem:
Pedersen from '94 I rebuilt a few years back... integrated bars and stem (i.e. they're brazed together for a zero-mm extension... the stem vertical is brazed into the bars, there is no horizontal part to the stem).
The interface with the steerer is an old type expander, not the quill ended type. So the stem has a split near the bottom, and the long bolt pulls a conical wedge up the stem to push the flanges outwards, these 'grip' the inside of the threaded steerer.

The HUGE fork out of the bottom of this steerer, once any kind of significant load on the fork (front rack) makes the interference of the stem with the steerer slip. Initially I had powdercoat all the way down the stem (what a dumbass I never got the painter to mask it). Now I have stripped the paint I am still finding the raw steel on steel isn't enough to really grip the fork enough to stop slippage.

Would I be bonkers to cut the slit section of the stem off, at a wedge, and use a quill instead?

I don’t think you need to cut the stem. Just get a longer bolt and use 2 wedges, 1 upside down against the bottom of the stem. In my head that works.
My neighbour has a Pedersen I’ll try to catch him tomorrow to see if he has any other ideas.

In my head that works

What a magical place that must be.

Your proposal solves the axial load problem, but provides neglible support against torsional (steering) loads.