Help — Adding spacers to a stem adapter

Have a very ugly quill stem adapter on a current Muddyfox Pathfinder MTB (image below). Am looking to go full Stridsland and convert this into a build with a bmx stem and a set of the Anchor Bars I have.

Issue is im 6'4" so need the height of the quill stem adapter to be raised, but hate the look of them. Ideally i'd buy a quill stem adapter like this and run a load of spacers on it to achieve a similar look to this

a) is this even doable?
b) what size spacers would I need? 1" ?
c) do i need a different headset altogether to run the spacers neatly from the top cover?

I know it's probably a dumb idea and totally unnecessary, but i'm into the freak build.

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You can't really change the headset to something that would look seamless, since it's a threaded fork, so the top of the header will always be a locknut.

Wouldn't a set of higher rise bars be easier, safer, cheaper and look better?

Spoken like someone who's never seen the Innicycle adapter.

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So this innicycle adapter should do the job really? without the fuss...?

without the fuss...?

But with a big dent put in your wallet if I remember correctly.

Every day's a school day!

That is a properly clever design.
https://youtu.be/DOlHzF64kmg?feature=shared

Cool thing that!

To the OP: The picture you like seems to be a threadless setup, you want to mimic that with a quill adapter then cover it with a sleeve of spacers... seems like the internal diameter of your spacers is going to be the problem, chances of this working out seems small.

Seeing as you want a 'freak' build, why not just get a huge quill with a supersmall stem extension? I guess I'm asking: do you absolutely have to have a threadless style stem? There are cheapo tall quills, steel (which i would recommend given you're large and no doubt want to carry all the weight at the front because Stridsland), that are fine or you can go spenny with something nitto do I'm sure.

The other obvs way to go is get a 1" threadless fork, right?

My lack of headset knowledge naively assumed the internal diameter of the spacers would nicely fit on the 1" nitto quill adapter? But as you said seems like the chances of this working out are small. And there is also going to be a nasty junction between the locknut and the spacer.

Yeah BMX quill stem seems to be another good option. Just not into how skinny those quills look when poking so far out of the headtube, bit giraffe like. Although this is definetely the most economical option agreed.

Secondly could be leaning towards getting a 1" threadless fork instead, somehow always manage to naturally lean towards the more expensive option....

I shoved 1" spacers in a conversion quill to get rid of the gap. Worked OK:

And it was a PZ Quill Stem Adapter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380936774383

So I might be talking bollocks (re spacers fitting over)

Townbike quills likely to fit your steerer, I think BMX quills are a smaller size.

You can definitely get 1 inch spacers that work with some quill stems and will look almost flush with that nitto adapter. I think you will need quite narrow OD as well the correct ID for it to work and look good

To OP I have someblack 1" spacers that were gifted to me by @Retro_Bastard I can post to you if you cover postage. You can use them to fill the gap on the quill however you will get a bit of the silver quill adaptor showing at the top where it flares out.

Ye someone needs to make a stem where the OD of the step perfectly matches the OD of the 1 inch spacers and the step is not flared

Just saw this on pedalroom, 3D printed stem and headset spacers, apparently

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That is a properly clever design.

<_<

_>

...Innit.

Oh hey, you could get someone who has access to a lathe to just turn that flared step off

I reckon can get the spacers and nitto stem adapter to work nicely. Is there anyway of getting a cleaner finish on the locknut? This Nitto cable hanger looks pretty smart, but guessing it would still have to sit inbetween the locknut?

I think you'd always have to flare the step ever-so-slightly to avoid a stress-riser at the sharp internal corner. A better bet would be to grind away the inside of the top spacer to create a funnel shape that fits tight up around the flare. The spacers aren't taking any load so there's no problem with removing material.