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• #23777
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• #23778
Thanks everybody for the feedback on the Kentmere 👍
It strikes me as good film that you can get a lot out of if you develop yourself with suitable chemicals..
.. I don't dev myself anmore so think I'd just go with classic HP5 (which is just 1 Euro more, and which has more of a straightforward / "hard" look, which I enjoy)..But that's for when the weather gets bad, the coming months I'll shoot all the colour emulsions that are in my fridge right now ☺️
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• #23780
Ah, cool, thank you for sharing - these look kinda different compared to what has been posted so far indeed!
Very intense / moody! 🙂 -
• #23781
Kodak Portra 400 (SMC Pentax 30mm)
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• #23782
Kodak Portra 400 (AF Nikkor 35mm 2.0)
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• #23783
kodak gold / fuji gw670
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• #23784
Nice! 👌
Last one is my favourite..
..where is that? -
• #23785
Beautiful stuff!
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• #23786
Some more recent scans.....
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• #23787
incredible
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• #23788
Superb - really like the first one (with Llyn Idwal peeking out past the shoulder) and the last. Gold looking great with the Welsh hills.
Props for carrying the gw670 up there
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• #23789
Three is an awesome portrait, but four is my fave! (Oooh, just looked again and saw the backing paper transfer/imprint and like even more :)
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• #23790
Wondering if that's because it wasn't developed for 2.5 years after I shot it?
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• #23791
I've been messing about with a lightbox for digitisng my negatives and while it's definitley better than the cheap film scanner I bought, I'm still not 100% happy.
My images are looking pretty flat and uninspiring when I do a straight negative to positive flip using the tone curve in Lightroom.
These are shot on Kentmere 400 in my Hexar, with decent Voigltander lenses, devved in R09 One s1hot which has given me plenty contrasty negs in the past and these do look good so I'm going to have to assume that it's at the digitising stage that they are going flat.
I'm photographing the negs infront of a Jessops lightbox with my Canon 5d mk1 and 100mm macro lens. Camera set to aperture priority and between f2.8 and about f4.
Anyone else digitising in a similar way?
This image is shown as photogrpahed, with the tone curve flipped and then with the exposure bumped up (which darkens it as the tone curve is flipped).
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• #23792
This is my set up,
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• #23793
I don't personally, but there are a couple of people on here who scan with a DSLR and will surely chime in shortly -
what would definitely be good practice though: masking off the whole "rest" of the light table with black cardboard to avoid stray light entering your lens, and crop the image itself (exclude the borders / parts of neighbouring images) before inverting / adjusting any further (shooting only the image itself as much as possible is obviously best so you don't have to throw away part of the resolution later..)
Also I'd definitely google "inverting scans" followed by your specific film, as they all have a different "base" which should be accounted for ideally.
Not 100% sure on this one but I remember reading that shooting ("scanning") the neg in colour and then converting to b&w yields better results compared to shooting straight in b&w - which is already an interpretation by the 5D of what the sensor captures - so start by shooting raw files instead 👍 -
• #23794
Kodak Gold 200 (Pentax Espio Mini)
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• #23795
thank you!
they're all from a recent day in snowdonia - tryfan, glyder fach and glyder fawr -
• #23796
cheers! good spot
yeah possibly not the greatest choice of camera for a full day of scrambling, but glad i had it in the end! -
• #23797
Kodak Gold 200 (Pentax Espio Mini)
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• #23798
excellent
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• #23799
I looked at the photo I posted of my setup and wondered if light spill might be the issue.
I think I’ll try masking of the rest of the light box and see what that does. Also going to construct some kind of ‘ledge’ for the neg holder to sit on. I’d tried holding the negs under a piece glass and shooting down onto the light box but was getting pretty bad moiré in the shadows.
I’ve not actually done any desaturation or b&w conversion on those images I posted, it’s b&w negs, shot with colour raw files.
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• #23800
A negative just reversed should look flat, it's a log image. At a minimum you need to set you
black and white points and apply a s-curve.
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The Kentmere film is good. I love shooting it at iso 1000 and processing at times for 1600.
It’s maybe not quite as smooth (or detailed in the shadows) as HP5 at any speed but the difference is small and bulk rolls (of Kentmere) are around half the price.