Home DIY

it's much better to let them ineffectually wobble a brush with zero control or leverage from 10m away like our old one did. he basically gave the windows a bit of a damp sweeping.

🤣

Just get him to confirm a date or say you'll organise it yourself and invoice him.

I can't imagine your average roofer is as busy right now as over winter.

Placing a piece of hardboard / other stiff sheet under it would prevent pooling too. Belt & braces.

This stuff sounds pretty outrageous, 2 minute cure with uv lighting!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiJdtJeO0JQ

…

They’re very much not airtight.

Either a sand & cement parge coat, or a liquid airtight membrane must be brushed on if you want to achieve airtightness.

thanks. sorry moved my question to the insulation thread after posting. you’ve confirmed what I suspected…

Just changed out my two standard B22 ceiling fixtures for some nicer looking replacements and think I might have screwed up slightly - these take a single G4 LED bulb; the ones they came with were dim as hell and I can only seem to find bulbs which go up to 200 lumens, which will not light a living room in a frosted glass fixture. Are there G4 bulbs in existence which will get bright enough for a living room, or is the idea that they're meant to be used in clusters in spotlights and things, and I'm SOL? Should have twigged given how small the wired connections were that they weren't going to be drawing much current at all, but I'm not the most experienced with working with electrics..

What's the best wood filler to use, when you want to mix sawdust into it to colour-match?

I had some lying around for ages from when I sanded and finished my floorboards years ago, but can't find it now so need to buy some more...

I didn't think there was one, always thought it was a pva white wood glue technique that was never an exactly perfect match

It's usually a clear resin mixed with the sawdust in my previous experience. PVA glue is the poor man's alternative

can't say I'm massively sold on either idea

clear resin

I'll stick my neck out , would you mean an araldite product?

https://www.grandparkett.com/wood-floor-finishes-lacquer-hardwax-oil-varnish/wood-floor-gap-filler

The Berger seidle stuff looks good, it's what I stumbled upon while thinking about my floors.

No. Something runny and made for the purpose like

Bona mix and fill

That's the stuff! Thanks!

Anyone had a double glazed unit re-sealed and re-gassed in situ?

You'd usually just replace the whole pane as far as i'm aware

No, as it is usually cheaper to buy a new window, due to labour costs here.

Is the unit misted inside?

Unfortunately it’s a 3000x1000 triple glazed rooflight. Not very easy to swap out. Upper chamber has a leak and water vapour inside.

Oh. In that case no idea.

I know you can get people to drill a hole and do stuff like replace the air. But the seal has failed so the silica gel in the seal will need replacing or drying out then re sealing.

Is that not a guarantee thing? Hopefully including access...

They’ll replace the unit, but fitting is on our coin, and would be a nightmare

Any sparks/people with electrics know how?

We are doing our kitchen up and as part of that have removed some crap (didn’t work right) and ugly lights from under our upper units.

The lights were all wired into a transformer/voltage reducer which sat on top of the units and was fed by a big heavy ‘twin and earth’ cable that’s in the wall. There’s also a switch box in the wall.

Removing the lights and transformer was pretty straight forward but after that I was left with the ‘twin and earth’ cable so pushed each of the wires into a 3 port push fit wire connector (pictured in the palm of my hand) as mrs m_v had read that was a good way to cap off unneeded wiring. This is now inside the box under my finger in the photo of the top of the cupboard. Apologies about the state of the top of the units, we clearly need to start cleaning up there better!

I thought all was well but tonight we had the light on on our cooker hood (fed by another twin and earth which comes out the wall same place the other one does and runs through a fused box) and I flicked the now redundant light switch and it blew the fuse for the cooker hood so now I’m a bit worried about how I’ve done things.

The wall switch should not have anything to do with the hood but I guess it somehow does?

We also have a double socket in a stupid place right by the sink that we want to replace with a blanking plate so we will need to ‘cap off’ the wiring inside of it, any advice about how to do that much appreciated.

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