Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I’m not sure that I can upload a video showing the issue I’m trying to fix.

I have some old Deore XT levers that have a lot of play in them, up and down.
How can they be tightened up?

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Are the AliExpress versions any good though?

If it's just the top cap that's seized I'd try poking a some something in the bottom of the fork crown and hitting with a hammer.

Are the AliExpress versions any good though?

All the buyers who discuss it are of the opinion that it's the same product, made by Ted's supplier. I agree. Ted is special. His competitor on Ali provides a far superior service to him. Perhaps this is the only fuck-up like it in the bike trade?

Dremel cutting disc to cut a flat into it, lots of penetrating lube, and torque it out with a flat piece of metal on a handle.

An Easy out should work.

You should also prep it with pentrating fluid to get it moving along.

Other option is to drill and tap a couple of bolts to attach a bar of some sort and lever it out.

Incredible if it really is the same product, given the price difference between Ted and Ali.

It kind of makes sense. I disassembled my Ali Lekki. Does it look cheap to make? All four carbon parts are at the top. The metal parts (except fasteners) are aluminium.

@nick_h. Well I think it means Ted is ripping people off.

Does it look cheap to make?

It looks like it has been designed for minimal upfront tooling cost.

Maybe Ted gave permission for his supplier to sell on Ali. He might think that the type of person who takes a punt on mystery brakes on Ali is in a different market segment from someone interested in branded ultralight carbon. His only direct competitor is ee brakes, for $10 less https://canecreek.com/product/eebrakes/

Tap a slightly larger torx bit in to the rounded Allen bolt.

I still think I’d take the slight weight penalty and go with a pair of Dura Ace (and save £100).

For components where the plug sticks out a bit you can just pull them out with your fingers. Only pull on the hard plastic bit, not the wire. The internal battery falls into this category.

On components where the plug is more recessed, careful use of needle nose pliers will do the job, though you may mar the plastic slightly.

TL-EW02 is the official tool on an 11 speed group if you want to avoid the above. TL-EW300 is 12-speed only.

Quick question I need to buy a spare gear shift cable but everything has got much more specific than I'm used to on my older bikes.

So, am I correct that all Shimano shifters use the same 1.2mm gear inner cable? Specifically I need a cable for a Shimano SLX M7100 12-speed shifter.

Thanks @gbj_tester and @grams

Much obliged.
Never thought there could be a wiring tool.
Mine is the (old) Ultegra 22-sp (rim brakes).

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112V

At least all modern ones do. Avoid the coated ones and go for polished to get the most precise shifting.

polished

Die drawn. Sometimes confusingly called 'slick' like some coated cables are called.

Never seen em called polished.

and save £100

But the L8 on Ali is much cheaper than DA. A new batch is on sale for £72. Free shipping from France. https://tinyurl.com/4d8cy8zd

@user150481 and @Kimmo

Perfect thanks

Polishing is an extra process after the die drawing, probably unnecessary.

Jagwire’s top set are ‘pro slick polished’.

I have a rear fixed/free hub on a bike that's branded "men juin". If I google it I get some hubs from Santa fixie that look similar but not the same, I need to get new cartridge bearings and a slightly longer axle for it.
What's the likelihood it's exactly the same inside as the formula hubs and I can just get the spares for that hub?

Can you pop the bearings out to check?