Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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I was going to suggest running a tap through the large hole and using a couple of grub screws, from front and back, then I saw this.

The little grub screw from the side is an absolutely awful and rather sketchy way to clamp a brake cable.

That's a perfect solution! How do I buy the right grub screws?

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Yeah, wirewool and grease.

Those rust are pretty cosmetic though.

I think the kink is due to the concave end of the bolt and that the hole goes all the way through.

File the bolt flat? And have a second bolt going mid way through from the opposite side to plug the hole and act as a base to prevent the kink?

Clerkenwell screws helped me last time.

Thanks. As suggested by you and Fable I will try 2 grub screws.

Thanks yeah seems pretty superficial but would like to prevent it getting any worse!

They are currently closed for 5 weeks.

You were totally right - came off very easily with wire wool. Thanks again

Anyone able to give some advice on a chain stay u brake? I'm going insane. This old MBK frame needs one, but it's a mountain bike so put some fairly wide tyres on, I have a dia compe hombre brake fitted - the caliper arms touch when the pads contact the rim (already had to find some thick pads to get them close enough to contact) - it also seems like the wheel is about 5mm off centre - Most modern chainstay u brakes seem to have very narrow clearances.. Am I wasting my time trying to get this working? (I have re-organised the washers, realised I've taken the first two photos while messing about)

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You're welcome!

How much can you move it back on the drop out if it's semi horizontal?

If it's a vertical, then going smaller tyres will be your only option.

It's vertical - You reckon? Damn.

Yup, smaller tyre it is then.

Smaller tyre and different brake? Might just look at another frame to be honest!

Salt do wider U brakes, I’m not sure they’ll help though?!?
https://www.skatepro.uk/382-33893.htm

First thing I'd do is make sure that wheel is properly dished.

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166739&start=180

I wouldn't go anywhere near Ciamillo brakes.

I've studied that thread carefully, and posted in it. I don't think there's anything wrong with the brakes. Customers like them. They've had good reviews. Dealing with Ted is the problem. He takes the money, tells a bunch of lies and doesn't ship for months. But the Ali product arrives in days and the price is a fraction of Ted's.

The WW thread was started by a Lekki owner whose padholders broke https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=166739#p1683790 Nobody else has had that problem. The poster didn't stick around at WW, but people have surmised that he just overtorqued the bolts. https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=166739&start=165#p1713824

The current product, the L8 Ultra, is said to be an improvement over the Lekki. I'm installing the L8 and will report back. The Lekki used to go for $600. People paid that price and were happy with the brakes but not the delays. Ted has cut the L8 price to $399. I paid £55 at Ali. They sold out quite quickly. The way I see it is that I bought some great brakes for a tenth of the price of the slightly inferior previous model. (Which I also bought at Ali a couple of years ago for £145.)

Here are some Lekki reviews. I don't know of any reviews of the L8 Ultra.
https://www.roadbikereview.com/threads/ciamillo-lekki-8-brakes-review.381565/
https://www.bikeradar.com/news/these-are-the-lightest-road-brakes-in-the-world

I need to remove the Di2 groupset from my bike.
Is there a recommended way to do it?
I'm most concerned about the battery hidden in the seat tube.

Need any special tool(s)? (I have quite a lot already)

Need any special tool(s)?

TL-EW300

How best to attack a seized and rounded top cap on a BMX? Loosening the stem bolts and spinning the bars and stem didn’t budge it.

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