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• #45502
This is completely the answer I wanted, thank you. Have already ordered a 300x450mm test so will try a couple of finishes and think that could be the winner.
Edit. 1 q - how long have you had it? Do you notice much sheen from rubbing it with your wrist etc or does the wax (what kind?) give some protection? If it works I'm not completely against replacing every now and then but would like a good year or 3 out of it.
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• #45503
This looks like a good option, thanks.
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• #45504
Would you not be coating whatever you use anyway? I don’t imagine months of accumulated wrist oils would be good for anything untreated, and would become an issue more readily than mouse wear.
E: refresh fail, ho hum.
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• #45505
Like these cunts stick to their mft worktops
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• #45506
It is very hard-wearing, beer and wine stains mop easy. The marked part is my mouse / wrist area. It's been about 2 years. As I say, 8mm around a door. Chamfer edge so it looks like a solid piece. Need a radius on the bottom, get rid of sharp edge.
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• #45507
The desk doesn't look as bad irl
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• #45508
This is great info, really appreciated.
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• #45509
Oh thooooose cunts, yeah I know them. I think that'd probably be a tidier finish than what I'll end up with but really want it to be a removable lid-type affair and if I'm adding a laminate to something already hard I figure might as well just be that goldilocks material in the first place or I risk it being too thick for the wireless charging and transmission.
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• #45510
Looking to add a new radiator into the bay window of our living room. Does this look like a fair estimation of what needs to be done?
Ignore flexipipe note, that'll just be loads of the 3m straight JG stuff.
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• #45511
I've raked out a big crack next to a window in the corner of the room. Been here for at least the past 5 years, when we moved in. Opened it up a bit to see and the brickwork is loose. Wall outside is straight and no issue. No one has lived next door since we have moved in either so no idea about wall on the other side. Not sure what to do tbh. Any advice or large concerns?
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• #45512
How modern is your central heating pump?
Idealists often consider 2 x 45 angles, (where space & access allow), to reduce the friction of the system.
I'm assuming the pipe insulation has been omitted for clarity? -
• #45513
Are you intending to stay long term?
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• #45514
Lol. Initially, no. But now, yes. Which is why I'm looking at it now. Was really checking to see if I dont need to call a structural engineer.
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• #45515
Viessmann boiler's only a couple of years old. Under floor has quite a lot of brick supports for the joists so fairly limited on how to route it all, but will bear that in mind.
I've been putting off looking into pipe insulation as the rest of the house doesn't have it either!
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• #45516
Is it blown either side of the crack? Give it the tap test.
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• #45517
Small patches of blown plaster either side of crack at points, few mm to maybe a cm.
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• #45518
It is odd that the crack is in the middle of the window upright, rather than a corner.
No signs of damp either inside or out?Does the upper picture suggest this room is 2nd storey?
Any mimicing cracks in the room below?I would be tempted to find a Structural Engineer for a half hour visit,
just to clarify that this is not subsidence. -
• #45519
putting off looking into pipe insulation
Summer is the best time to start.
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• #45520
Happy to confirm I've never had my crack blown.
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• #45521
I would just slap a load of bonding in there and close up the last few mm with Easyfil.
Slightly more thorough would be to pull more plaster and any loose mortar away so that you can re-point the brick from the inside and then do the above on top of that.
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• #45522
Magnets
I want to stick magnets to a sheet of 8mm thick material so I can have it as a permanent but removable desk surface. I don't want to screw the magnets into the surface because I imagine, being 8mm thick, it would rip or damage when I pulled them off. I don't want to see any screws on the clean side of the surface.
I could probably keep it simple and just use some self adhesive magnetic tape but I worry it'd fail over time and getting it back in the same spot would be a pain.
So am imagining some kind of enclosure (surface is valchromat so potentially an enclosure of the same - whatever will bond to it with no chance of it falling off ever with the right glue), then screwing the magnet into the enclosure.
So the magnet is screwed in and the enclosure is bonded to the main surface. Then the main desk has matching magnets routed into it so when the surface sits on the desk it's all flush and seamless.
Anyone got any thoughts on what material of magnet/brands/what amount of pull I'd want (I'd say I'd want at least 4 magnets, possibly 6 - one on each corner and one in the middle (surface is 1000m x 2000m x 8mm).
Given the 8mm thick material, I'm not expecting great big thumb size things sticking into equivalent holes in the desk so all got to be fairly tiny.
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• #45523
Aliexpress neodymium magnets and filter by size
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• #45524
If you're routing some magnets in to the desk why don't you use a steel layer underneath the worktop?
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• #45525
surface is valchromat
Idk what this is like, but regular mdf always has a smoother side. If there is a smoother side imo you want that face down because it will help to create a vacuum and increase adhesion.
My desk is valchromat, sanded and sealed with wax, very hardy and no dust. I use an optical mouse. I used 8mm to cover an old door. Plenty of heft and sturdiness..