Tamiya

wasn't sure about was how tight to do up the ball diff and slipper clutch

You can test this. Hold one wheel and the spur gear so they can't turn. You can just about do this with one hand. Then turn the other wheel. You should feel a good amount of resistance but it should turn. If the bolt on the slipper clutch turns with it, the slipper is slipping before the diff, which is how it should be. The resistance will feel smooth. If the bolt does not turn, then the slipper is tighter than the diff and is not doing anything. Or worse, the diff is too loose and slipping before the slipper. The resistance will feel metallic and notchy.

Just treated myself to this mini machine.

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Gonna need a new wing.

Quite a few changes for this week at Stotford. Hardened the rear dampers and dropped a couple of spacers in to reduce droop and keep the ride height at about 18mm. Softened the front dampers and reduced the ride height to match the rear. Tightened the rear diff and loosened off the front.

Resulted in snappier turn in and persuaded the car to drift a touch when I was snappy enough with the steering.

Quality was up this week so DFL in all races except the final where I made up two places. Getting better at jumping the car well by using the throttle to keep the nose up in flight.

Step forward even though the delta in my lap times was a bit humbling.

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Made some more tweaks for DMS carpet racing;

• Neutral front camber to get the fronts to dig in a bit when cornering
  
• more negative rear camber to stop the rear tyres digging in when cornering
  
• Neutral front toe - to get more bite on the outside front tyre when cornering
  
  

All of this is aimed at encouraging the car to bite and slide to reduce understeer.

This all worked. I moved out of that 'kinda rolling roadblock' to 'actually competitive' and for a good chunk of my heat I was leading and TQ (until a back marker took me out. Ho hum).

New build.

Opel Kadett?

How did the changes go?

Getting there. Was probably fastest last Thursday I've been but the track was tight and twisty and very difficult in contrast with the previous week. Couldn't string a heat together without an off or two.

Feel like I'm struggling with damper settings. With 400cst the front feels very undamped and springy even with the 2 hole pistons. Have built a second set of dampers with 900cst oil in them for DMS carpet racing and a couple of internal travel limiters to bring the droop down a bit.

Thinking now that 5-600 cst is the minimum for the fronts.

I was going to ask in AQA, but maybe this thread has more direct experience - is the connector on this a JR connector?

As in, I should buy a 3-pin female JR connector to plug it into?

"JR connector" is what I know it as!

Yep. 3 pin JR Male needed.

(That is a female as it takes the pins not gives them)

True. Although this here (the female) will actually slide into the male connector.

Yep. It has a foreskin.

Thanks both!

(ELI5) Can you "space out" rear wheels?

I have a TT02, and an aftermarket shell. The rear wheels sit quite inboard of the shell at the rear and looks a little... shonky?
Front to a lesser extent, but might also need moving outwards a little.

You can either get wider wheel hexes (the kit ones are probably 5 mm). You can get 6, 7, 8, or 9mm hexes to widen the stance. Even bigger ones are available, but they might be too wide then for the axle (you won't be able to bolt the wheel on).

Otherwise, you can get offset rims, again, these come in a variety of sizes, but will widen the stance, without moving where the rim bolts onto the axle.

Theres 18 decals in this section.😂

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Not Tamiya, and not RC for a change, but just bought an Airfix 1/180 HMS Victory kit, complete with paint and glue, for £3 in a charity shop. No bits missing and usually retails at £40.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/368448/

Brilliant, thanks.

there truly is a thread for everything

M08 Datsun 510 is done…

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Radskillz

Donut .mov pls

Chicken dinner

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