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• #45352
re-boarding with gyproc how much easier it was to tape and skim the joints rather than get a plasterer
Welcome to’murica
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• #45353
I'm sold. So much less hassle. A quick splosh of Zinnser Drywall Pro and its ready to paint.
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• #45354
I have a Victorian terrace and the previous owners seem to have dug a bit of a trench near the front wall and put river pebbles in, presumably to keep damp away from the wall. But there was no barrier between it and the lawn, and they never weeded it, so it's just filled in and growing with grass like the rest of the lawn now. If I dig it all out, sieve it, and put it back, the same thing will happen - so what barrier should I get to put between it and the lawn, and should I put anything under the pebbles?
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• #45355
Check out non-woven geotextiles
eg Toolstation 40983Remove the pebbles, smooth out the sides and bottom of the trench
and apply a double layer of geotextile in a 'U'-shape.
Fill with pebbles. -
• #45356
Yes the same thing will happen, although it'll take a while.
You're looking for geotextile membrane. That should prevent soil washing into the stones which will make it harder for grass to grow.
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• #45357
Thanks both. What about paving edgers or something? I feel like it wants a neat line to look right?
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• #45358
As mentioned looks like DPM is between the white and grey, hence the moisture/mould.
Probably would have not painted below the DPM, but not a major issue, often the paint will flake off as moisture rises through.
Is the slab insulated or have a membrane or does moisture seep up through that as well?
Best bet will probably be a dehumidifier/heater, especially if you’re keeping tools/bikes rust worthy things in there. This will also reduce/eliminate mould.
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• #45359
What is the dimension?
A concrete gravel board, available in 6ft & 10ft lengths, (and 6 inch height), would give a consistent line. -
• #45360
Wallpaper noob here. Planning on putting some 'paste the wall' lining paper up so I can paint over it. This Albany (Brewers) stuff is fine for that? Can't find anywhere that says it's ok for painting and really don't want to find out it's not later....
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• #45361
sounds the same as wallrock fiberliner
"Always apply the inner surface to the wall."
and painting will be fine -
• #45362
Look under "more" on the site and it references applying emulsion after application of the paper. It'll be fine for painting 😊
In our place the previous owner did lining paper and painting in a few of the bedrooms, and it looks terrible now. We had a decorator in to do one of those rooms and they said the issue was that whoever installed it didn't account for expansion of the lining paper, and so the joins now looks crappy.
If you don't already know how to avoid that, I recommend doing a bit of searching on YouTube and Google to make sure you avoid what sounded like a common mistake.
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• #45363
I need to repaint a bathroom ceiling in white. Current paint is bubbling a bit over the shower, and whoever did it previously looks to not have done a great job, as there's no paint right in the corners?
Any recommendations for paint to do this with, and whether to go saying or matte?
If not, I'll likely order some zinsser perma white in Matt white.
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• #45364
A metal or clay edge would help keep the lawn from expanding, it doesn't have to be too deep 4-6 inches. Metal would be easier, quicker and cheaper https://www.everedge.co.uk
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• #45365
We need to replace kitchen tap and are thinking of getting a new mixer sink tap with a small water filter under the sink. Any recommendations?
For reference:
-it needs to be a single-lever handle sink tap (can't fit a secondary tap for the filter)
-we want slightly better drinking water and a reliable system.
-we have limited space and budget, do not need boiling water or fizz
-currently considering Grohe blue system, but open to suggestions -
• #45366
I fit quite a lot of bristan stuff, UK made, decent quality and prices aren’t too bad!
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• #45367
I think paste the wall paper should not expand....Ill ask the Brewers folks when I head in.
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• #45368
We have brita under sink with a Franke three way tap. All but filters bought used and individually, think the tap was 100€, filter holder 20 and the counter I don't remember.
It's good. BRITA PURITY C50 quell st filters and I think 25% pass trough as that seemed to make sense.
Tea and coffee taste better, kettle takes way longer to look bad. -
• #45369
Thanks didn’t know the brand. Happy to get UK made stuff. Have you replaced/serviced any of the filters? Just looked at some manuals and having to take apart the push-fit connector and the little feeder tubes seems like it could cause failures. The Grohe screw on cap seems a bit more resistant
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• #45370
Im going to be repainting MDF kitchen cupboard doors this weekend after steaming the rest of the gloss white laminate off the faces that has been gradually coming away.
I have always previously used Zinnser 123 and then Dulux diamond trade satinwood.
Everyone I know say we should be using Frenchic these days imparticular the new self priming, self leveling lazy range.
What's the consensus for this sort of project these days?
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• #45371
Carpets/capped off fireplaces.
Trying to make kids room more enjoyable to be in, so carpeting over the knackered boards. What's the forum wisdom on old fireplaces? I don't think we're realistically going to be ripping the thing out any time soon. There's a hearth which is the same level as the current boards. Then the little nook into the fireplace itself. Where does the carpet typically end? I had presumed carpeting over the hearth because it's just ugly and a trip hazard for a kid with zero spatial awareness. My wife thinks we should carpet into the fireplace too. To me that seems a bit weird. Any votes for either? Or anyone insist we don't even carpet the hearth?
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• #45372
have seen it carpeted into and even under the grill, doesn't cause offence & don't even give a seconds though to what's underneath, but I'd say it's done in the matter of maximising a small space
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• #45373
What they ^ said, and pix would help.
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• #45374
anyone got experience of using a thermal camera to identify drafts, gaps in insulation and cold bridging spots? looking for any tips, tricks and general pratfalls to avoid
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• #45375
Insulating your home thread is a better place to ask. Yoo might even be able to borrowed one off someone
Ventilation is needed.
Those bricks are below the damp course by the looks of things so will always be susceptible to moisture seeping through.