WTD: Fixed stuff - bullhorns, longish stem

Have a build in progress (https://www.lfgss.com/comments/17413268/) and need some parts. This list is evolving. Here's what I'm currently after:

23.8mm Cross-top brake levers
1" threadless/ahead headset
144BCD Cranks: Have got some now, but would still consider a good value, silver pair
1" Fork
ITA BB
Silver seatpost 26.8mm
Silver ahead stem, 110mm min, OS clamp
Bullhorn bars, at least 38cm

I've got some chrome 1" threaded forks going for cheap with about 17.5cm of steerer and slightly curved blades. Still need to take the crown race off it, which I'll be doing next week, but if you need it sooner I could always leave that on. Lemme know if you're interested and I'll take a couple of pix.

Thank you. If it's not a hassle I'd like to take pics, but don't go too deep. 17.5cm might be cutting it too fine too, unless I've measured things wrong (not used to older, threaded forks).

No worries, I'll ping you some pix later. You're welcome to try them for size if you like.

That's kind of you. Don't wanna waste anyone's time, but I might need to do that with a pair to get a feel or how it'll fit/look!

Disclosure that I'm trying to use the forks with the bike, but the tyre clearance/brake-mount is way too tight without some hacking or spacers like Surly Monkey Nuts (v1).

I’ve got these ratty but solid 531 forks that came off the second nicest off-the-peg Raleigh you could get in the late 80s. Just over 20cm of steerer. Definitely room for a 28mm tyre, maybe 30mm. £20 posted if you’re interested.

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Couple of pix with forks still on bike...

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Thank you both. The chrome ones do look quite tidy. @ketsbaia how much?

Got some black cranks now thank you very much. But if anyone does have silver ones going within budget, I might still consider them!

Carbon 1" forks available here https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/396103/

I have a nice Galli Criterium square taper, roller bearing, Italian thread BB if you'd still be looking for one?

I am, but am yet to list the details. After a JIS Square taper 112/113mm.

I’m selling a pair of NOS steel, raw lacquered forks with a tonne of steerer tube here:

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/395582/#comment17406520

Thanks

Lovely, but outside of my budget. Thanks.

Sorry forgot to reply. Spindle length and price please?

OK, well I can tell you I don't think I have any Italian thread BBs with that length of axle. My Galli one is unfortunately a few mm's too long, although it was JIS taper. I have several Shimano ones but there again the axles aren't right. Just possibly I might have a Gipiemme one but will have to find the axle to measure it. Got several Campag ones but I think all those will be ISO taper.
But I know you're also interested in silver 144bcd cranks. I don't think your first choice was vintage but I have these SR Super Apex ones that are a bit special:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RjPefnqKndVK7ew77
They're in really nice condition still having a mirror shine, and even have their original dustcaps. And in case you don't know SR too well, Super Apex is their second tier model, just below Royal.
Finally, because you still seem to be searching for a fork, I have some nice chrome ones. They're off a Motobecane bike, are pretty new looking and have a lugless sloping crown and only a slight curve near the dropouts. I'll have to measure the steerer tube and check what tyre clearance is like. From memory they look v much like the Raleigh forks above but of course I can check.

Thanks for that.

I think I'll grab a cheap tange BB, they seem to be available locally in the right spec. Yeah I got some black cranks but may still consider some cheaper silver ones as I do want to try both looks out. However, that will be later (during the Summer break maybe) and isn't a priority now. Having said that, those SRs look really nice.

OK, well I hadn't thought Italian thread BBs were so easy to come by, but there we are. And yes, the SR cranks are definite lookers, glad you like them. You never know, I could still have them later in the year so let me know if you're still interested then. You didn't comment on the forks I mentioned but possibly you're already covered now (although you didn't mention this in your previous replies).

I'm still sitting on finding the right forks. There's a discussion here as to why I'm having some trouble if you're interested: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/383951/#comment17415614

Basically, I tried to re-use the forks I have but will have issues with both the brakes and tyre clerances. The fork adapters are hard to comeby and/or risky. So new fork will be required, but want to make sure it looks good and fits well, not just anything. Some of the better examples I've had advertised to me are too short (steerer)

Righto, well I've seen the discussion and agree that the bike's existing forks could be a bit dangerous due to it's shallow curve and the shoe/wheel overlap you'd have when turning corners whilst still pedaling. I suppose with the frame being a track design it was supposed that the rider would be on the track and so hardly turning at all, and therefore the overlap wouldn't be an issue. So yes, sounds like a new fork would be the best option. The fork I mentioned to you previously was also a shallow design (though not track specific) but I have other older forks with a deeper curve that could help. If you're interested I can do a search and send pics. Although it sounds like you're still of two minds on if your existing fork can still be used somehow.
Edit: just re-read your discussion and think I've misinterpreted what you said about clearance and in fact you've no issue with shoe overlap. Can I ask if you've tried vintage brake calipers suited to time trial bikes? These are designed for bikes like yours where the fork's design means that the drop of the brake has to be tiny. I have some brakes like this and would be happy to tell you the drop measurement and see if it would work with your setup.

Really appreciate the time you're taking to help. I was in two minds but am leaning to a new fork (carbon Columbus to match the frame if possible), but now that you mention TT brakes?

I put some Campy Mirage brakes on the front which are pretty shallow drop, and the nut was rubbing against the tire. Maybe if I downsized to a 23c that wouldn't happen, but I rather stick to 25+ or comfort and preference.

My last track bike did have toe overlap but it wasn't a major issue even while weaving in and out of central London.

Glad to help. And it's good to hear toe overlap isn't an issue. Central London can be pretty hairy due to the craziness on the roads, so anything else (poor bike setup etc) to add to the risk is obvs not good.
As for your fork setup, I'm not sure what the nut could be rubbing against your tyre, I'd just have thought a bigger tyre would be catching against the underside of the brake caliper? Anyway, have a look at this link for a pretty standard TT specific brake: https://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=646C7485-0C31-48D0-8FC9-4B48AD7FF455&Enum=117&AbsPos=34
They might be designed to work with slightly wider tyres, although at the same time a lot of the guys at TTs back then were using tiny tyres like 20c and less, and they liked the clearance between brake and tyre to be low (as with rear wheel in relation to a bike's seat tube where they wanted 'fag paper' clearance between the two) so I'm not totally sure if the small drop will help. There might be some more info on the above Velobase site though.

Replied to you in my other thread @walkmanman

I'm probably going to need a new seatpost too. I measured inside the seat tube with some vernier calipers and got a horizontal (to the clamp) measurement of 27mm. I then took too other measurements, which were closer to 26.6-26.8! I'm guessing because the bolt is currently loose, the 27mm measurement is actually too wide. Mind you I did manage to get the 27.2 post in the frame and it wasn't a struggle, but took it out (and have even sold the post now).

Anyone know where in East London I might be able to get a seat post of that sort of diameter? I'm thinking Hackney Peddler in Stokey.

I find measuring inside a seattube with calipers gives all sorts of different readings. If 27.2mm fit nicely wouldn’t it be best to stick with that? A shop with some sizing gauges will give you a definitive answer

It wasn't forced in but it wasn't smooth sailing... I've heard you can warp/distort the tubes.