Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • Thanks for all the advice everyone - will have a look! Don't have the cone spanners to adjust the hub but maybe I should get ahold of some.

  • Balls out, races in.
    Bigger balls on the bottom.

    Campagnolo tech docs are here. 👍


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  • Be wary, you may end up needing a massively long stem to make it work, it may need 30-40mm longer due to the back sweep.

    Have a look at Ritchley Buzzard, it will keep stem at a reasonable length (I went from 110mm on the Geoff to 50mm on thr Ritchley)

    Lastly, just get a pair of Shimano MT200.

  • Is that for the Geoff Bar? I'm going to stick on some Easton Riser Bars first then Geoff's there if need the carry space, I didn't enjoy them previously tbh.

    Edit: I also have Gusset Stache bar I could move from another bike.

  • Went passed yesterday at 4, at the shutters were down.

  • Toolstation and Screwfix do bits too.

  • If you are near turnpike lane of angel can lend you the spanners and probably a syringe of grease to regrease the hub in case all the grease has washed out.

  • Easton's looking good so far. Yet to recable the shifter.


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  • Cheers. I'm out most days this week so ordering from Accu worked very well. Too well, since I don't have time to install the bastards. I'll get around to it.. one day... one day...

  • I've recently decided to dabble with a full carbon fork. First time out and I noticed there's a bit of judder when using the front brake. It was a used headset so I popped new bearing in and double checked brakes, rotors, brakepads, hub and spokes but that didn't help. Took everything apart again and I've noticed that the crown race is quite a loose fit and will rock slightly or can rotate without too much effort on the steerer.

    What are the chances that a loose race would be causing the judder? Is a new crown race in order or is a bit of movement normal on carbon forks?

  • What are the chances that a loose race would be causing the judder?

    High. It's basically the same as having excessive bearing clearance.

    What sort of headset? If it's a cartridge bearing, you might get away with a split crown race as long as the clearance is small enough to be taken up by the inner bearing compressing the conical seat radially without bottoming out axially.

  • Wolf Tooth premium, cartridge bearing. Annoyingly no one seems to have the replacement crown race in stock in this country, only the full lower assembly.

  • As long as the chamfer angle is the same and there's no funny business with seals going on then most split races of the same angle will do, in fact you could try cutting a small slot in the current one first.

  • Coke can shim an option? 😉

  • try cutting a small slot in the current one first.

    ^This

    You're no worse off if it doesn't work

  • Easier still, just carefully apply a tight layer or two of sellotape around the crown seat - if you can get the right thickness so that the tape gets compressed without being smooshed down and caught under the bottom face, you're golden. You have to do it in multiples of almost a complete wrap of course, to keep it centred (leave a little gap at the end instead of overlapping), but you can fine-tune the thickness to some extent by the amount you stretch the tape.

    Aluminium tape can also work, but without the stretching.

  • Breaking out the hacksaw!

  • tl;dr: bent rear triangle, what do?

    My way-too-fancy-for-me Basso frame has been wounded while locked up for the fist time ever in Cardiff (long dumb story involving losing my whole set of keys down a lift shaft) and the bike shop I went to isn’t keen to try fixing it.

    As you can see the wheel now sits v wonky towards the NDS chainstay when right back in the dropouts, and even when mounted centrally the whole bike feels sorta off-kilter when riding in a way it definitely wasn’t beforehand. I first thought it was a wobbly wheel or a loose headset or something but nope, rear triangle is out of whack.

    Mechanic has confirmed this but he’s reluctant to try realigning it due to the age of the frame and the risk of causing new bonus damage (?). One to try at another shop, a proper frame builder type job, or do I just suck it up? I have an insurance claim ongoing so not gonna go full DIY, but equally I’m a bit stumped. Any words of wisdom greatly appreciated


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  • It's not going to get any better unless it either has tubes replaced by a framebuilder, or it's percussively repaired. Personally, it's steel, and it bent to get it in that shape, so it's worth a shot bending it back

  • it bent to get it in that shape

    Legit. I’ve done (a bad job of) some cold setting in the past and learned the limitations of my skill. Will wait to see what the insurance folks have to say but in the meantime will call around to see if another workshop fancies giving it a go. Everywhere I’ve called so far has tried to send me off to Argos in Bristol, and in all fairness that might be the end point of all this. What a faff.

  • I’d post in the framebuilders section about it, one of the kitchen/garage builders will likely at least look at it for you. I would but you’d need to post it to me and given I can’t guarantee I can do anything it might be a gamble you don’t want to take.

  • I can’t guarantee I can do anything it might be a gamble you don’t want to take

    Seeing your previous work on here that sounds like the fun sort of gamble

    But seriously thank you for feedback and offer of help - glad that others agree it’s the sort of thing that needs some more looking at.

  • Slot in the crown race doesn't seem to have solved the judder. Might just throw the bike in the canal.

  • Detective fork?

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

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