Home DIY

The best way to do it is take it off the hinges and cut it with a track saw. Anything else is more difficult and time consuming.

Even cutting with a handsaw when it's off the hinges is quicker than trying to do it in place.

One door has been removed by the carpet fitter.

Don't have a saw! They were all thrown away!

I can order Auer directly from their website (I'm in DK), although I'm currently using Bauhaus'own brand ones. Noted re: spacing.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

interested in what you go for. We've got a similar issue with ours (no coping, just bare bricks...) so good to know prices

Bank holiday DIY off to a flyer.

I’ve had a structural engineer come in and the report says non load bearing. It’s a single header and, from what I can see, it’s not tied into the ceiling or the wall, just nailed in place.

I’m good to rip this down, right? 😅

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Also, any ideas why part of the light switch in the wall would go into the floor? Have I just got unlucky and this is where they chose to link the first floor ring to the ground floor for the CU?

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Bit odd, especially as the lower one is the normal gauge for a 6 amp lighting circuit and the others look like 2.5 mains.

Yeah; I can’t really work it out. I’m obviously just got to extend them into the wall I’m keeping and leave them as is but it’s odd.

You could disconnect the lower one and see if it remains energised when the circuit is on.

Change of plan, or a mix up would be my guess.

What are you actually doing? Was this a dressing area, or originally planned to be a built-in wardrobe or something, that the developers never fitted?

It was billed as a walk in wardrobe area between the bedroom and the en-suite. In reality, they put some cheap veneer doors on the area and a single clothes hanging pole across on each side. We later put IKEA wardrobes in the space but it's still a bad use of space having the walls so they're going. The one that's gone today already makes the space feel larger and I haven't moved the wardrobe back and across yet which will give us even more space.

Got notching of the top plate left to go before I can add back plasterboard and run the new plug socket & light switch locations.

Still to do:

1. Move the wardrobe & remove the rear spacers, skirting & floor
   
2. Return wardrobe, add skirting and paint
   
3. Run ceiling speaker wire and TV wire through wall to wardrobe
   
4. Do other side
   
   

Looks so much bigger already though.

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Before:

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Hand saw will do it no bother

Want to make the handles in my kitchen cupboards and drawers black instead of silver. Figure it's easier to just remove the existing ones, spray paint them all black and put them back on, rather than find handles that fit the existing screw holes.. am I being stupid?

Also what sort of matte black spray paint will I need which will go on what appears to be a brushed metal - never spray painted before; will I need to sand the surface?

How high quality a finish do you want?

If it's the typical forum level of ATD then there is a good chance you'll be disappointed.

I would probably get Simonez tough black, as it's tough and if used correctly I think you should be able to get a clean spray.

Other considerations:

• a dedicated dust free space that isn't cold to do the application.
  
• how to open the doors for the 3 days or so the handles are being sprayed and curing.
  

bluing liquid?

find handles that fit the existing screw holes

Have you at least checked if the company that made the existing handles produces a version in the colour you want?

I would have thought handle screw spacing would be fairly standardized.

Repainting sounds like more hassle than it's worth. Personally I would prefer stuff like this to be in a colour that is either self-finish material or at least something that develops a nice patina as it wears. I don't think a DIY repaint will achieve this.

Pretty sure it's stainless (or even aluminium) and not carbon, but this would otherwise have been a good shout!

I would have thought handle screw spacing would be fairly standardized.

@Cupcakes hoping that's the case but I'm an absolute novice at all this stuff so not sure how that works! Might go off and try find handles with the right spacing and check for myself, in that case.

Edit: I'm an idiot don't mind me, cupboard handles have standardized sizes thank God.

Handle spacing does have some common sizes. Painting them will probably not last given that they get touched a lot.

We want an outdoor shower in the back garden. Any flaws in this plan?

1. We have an outdoor tap already;
   
2. Fit y-piece. One to hosepipe, one to new shower;
   
3. Flexi hose from y-piece to copper piping;
   
4. Run copper piping along external wall (brackets every 1m into brickwork), just above ground level to avoid patio door step;
   
5. 90deg bend to vertical and run copper pipe up the external wall to desired height;
   
6. Possibly include additional valve in this vertical section; and
   90deg bend back to horizontal, to allow showerhead fitment.
   
   

Put a slight fall on the first horizontal pipe, back towards the tap, so the flexi hose can be unscrewed and the system emptied over winter?

In the UK?

My dream holiday retreat would definitely have an outdoor shower.

I once stayed in a lodge in a game reserve in SA that had one, and soaping your nuts in the warm fresh outdoors overlooking nature was an amazing feeling. Equally outdoor showers in Central America were great, albeit less lux, when you've got a queue of backpackers waiting their turn.

Yep. North London to be precise, where it gets absolutely redders in Summer.