Home DIY

It wouldn't be a ply floor it would be a floorboard floor! You'd just need something to bring it up to level. I'm no fan of 6mm ply either, but you wouldn't be relying on its strength, it would basically act like a packer between the boards and the joists. You could use 6mm Hardiebacker if you were worried about it not being tough enough.

Any roofers on here able to offer opinions on this?

Spotted a leak in my roof leading into the attic. A roofer I've used before has come back (dunno what's up with the ALL CAPS) with this and I suppose I'm looking for a sense check...

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it's like reading a message from my mother in law.

Don't think it is that, feels more that I'm going between browsers and pages.

Coppen stones are copping stones I think.

Clubscrew no idea.

Building wise there are more lead alternatives, as lead requires a specialist with lots of PPE so usually expensive.

I think lower case is unavailable to the trades.

Club screw is the lumpy bit that marks the divide between the two properties I think

Oh aye these guys doing lead work have all the PPE.

Is 'COPPEN' meant to translate as coping stone,
the full width components leading down and away from the chimney stack.

'Granit', (granite?), when crushed into a powder or fine gravels has no particular waterproofing properties.
Any cementitious site mixed grout or mortar will have poor adhesion and will shrink and crack,
leading to further water ingress.
A quality elastomeric sealant will give good unprimed adhesion, bonding to the coping stones with a waterproof seal.
Depending upon ease of access, there's barely a morning's work rebedding those coping stones.

That's what I wondered (re granit). I'll have to query the materials.. And get another few quotes while I'm at it

Is GRANIT a typo for grout?
Either way, that message doesn't fill me with confidence.

Send the photo to Mark that I linked you on the Locohome chat. He’ll probably want to come out, although he might not stretch as far as Southside (if I’m recalling where you stay)

Covering all the coping stones with lead seems a little overkill. If the issue is the joints on the coping stones would your neighbours potentially have ingress as well? Might be worth a check.

Have done - no response yet but hopefully he'll get back soon

I can't remember the roofing terms, trying to remember if I knew them. Tho I forgot the names of bits of a window and what risotto was while eating risotto.

Even googling came up with nothing apart from golf clubs.

Next attempt in the paint front, on top of Dulux quick dry satin wood mid sheen brilliant white is going to be Dulux once gloss brilliant white.

The first coat of the satin wood did not have any prep, maybe a wipe with a microfibre cloth.

What do I do to make the paint work look less striped? Sand and a second coat with a decent brush?

Tempted to try this https://www.toolstation.com/leyland-trade-satinwood-paint-25l/p62073 after have finished the Dulux paint

Garden crew - I’m about to put down some gravel in the back garden and need to put some aggregate down as a sub base in places to bring levels up.

Was thinking of using type 1 which I would then level with a compactor but I read it’s not good for drainage, and where I live it rains a lot. Any thoughts?

Any reputable supplier of aggregates should have a 'draining Type 1' available.
Rather than 56mm to dust, I've seen, in London a 40-20mm sieving offered.
Still compacts down, with sufficient interlock, but plenty of voids to allow permeability.
Remember to wrap this layer of permeable aggregate in a geotextile to prevent soil heave and fines washing in to block the voids

There was an issue with the roof on the tenement that I previously lived in. It took several years and several contractors before we found one that could solve it. What was needed practically was to pour water on the roof (or wait until it was raining) and then look in various places in the roof space with an endoscope to watch the water entering and moving laterally before heading into the upper flat.

Plenty of people can spot An issue from a photo, but is it The issue? Water ingress is a tricky thing and in my experience it takes a lot more than a single photo to diagnose. So I would say be wary, get other quotes/opinions and hopefully someone will be able to figure it out.

Also, does this shed any light on the clubscew wall term? https://underoneroof.scot/skews/

I would assume that coppen means coping as others have suggested.

You would probably get better results with a small roller. Brush quality does matter but technique with a brush plays a part.

When you say wrap it, do you mean above and below they type 1?

We were going to put a weed membrane on top of the type 1 and beneath the gravel

Thanks - i've been up to the attic and taken a video of there the water is rolling down the brick so hopefully that helps narrow it down a bit.

Yep wrap it on all 6 sides to prevent soil/fines being washed into the voids between the large pieces of aggregate.

Aggregate laid on soil will just sink in.

It is common for water to travel. Hence the 'trick' of using fluorescent dyes used in drains for leaks.

I have a wooden outdoor table that's a bit fucked - warped top with cracks.

I plan to:

• rescrew and glue
  
• try and flatten it a bit with clamps
  
• fill cracks
  
• sand
  
• oil
  
  

It's a cheaply made table from BITD, but I have sentimental attachment. I'm not aiming for a billiard table. Just a bit more solid and flatter.

Question:

1. What black wood filler for outdoor use/survival? Plus any tips on making it adhear well to the surrounding wood.
   
2. Any tips on flattening? - I was planning on dampening the wood and clamping some long strips of wood
   
   

Edit: actually I think gluing and rescrewing will go a long way to flattening it enough. I guess the question is whether steaming it first and then clamping it properly will help it flatten rather than straining against the screws and glue and either cracking or breaking the bond? And are there any other mitigating actions I can take?

Cheers

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Interesting I hadn’t seen much (anything) about this in my fairly limited research online.

The soil that the type 1 is going on is already very compacted as I have dug down quite a lot from the original level of the garden.

In this photo the plan was for the 2/3s closest to the back wall to just have weed membrane then ~30mm gravel and flower beds whereas the 1/3 (closest to the bottom of the photo) will have compacted type 1 to bring up the level before being covered in membrane and gravel

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