MGOOF : Modern groupset on old frame

What would be a lot nicer than external cabling is if you could get tape with flat conductors in it...

Huh: https://fairymeadowminiatures.com.au/lighting/accessories-en-2-3-4-5/tapewire-copper-tape-2-conductor-30.html

Oooh, particularly if it were transparent.

Me likey

I'm going mad.

Was there not a brother? build many moons ago that used electrical circuit paint?

It's not brother but someone like them.

Dammit's Talbot?

Maybe. Did it work? 😅

electrical circuit paint

Would not recommend. Had a bastard of a time with that stuff once

Yes, but it was very fragile.

Is EPS V3 two wires like Di2? It's four, innit.

Bummer... Had a brief thought - you could string a pair of shift cables down the downtube and contrive to make them the actual conductors. Crazy shit.

I didn't say it would be easy or straightforward.

How about a set of old-timey friction levers, each one with a coax electric cable instead of a shift cable, using the levers to keep them taut.

Might even be possible to find some coax in silver, under 1.5mm thick... And then run the RD wire through the chainstay cable stop and a bit of old-school derailer loop.

Full double-take material.

using the levers to keep them taut.

This is a very good thought.

Would need to figure out a good cable stop for the other end of the runs to achieve tension.

Be very cool if there were some really low profile, short shifting levers. Almost like bar end shifter sized.

These seem short

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All this chat and the groupset is yet to be picked up from the PO!

Today's job...

How about a nice modern frame for the nice modern groupset?

My version: an old group set on an old frame, on a newish wall

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@dammit having seen your news in the 911 thread, do you fancy using your impending spare time to take on my fun little project?

Also, and more importantly, I hope you're cool?

What kind of voltage is the groupset i know there are some electric cables used for lighting and LED systems that are pretty slim and have transparent sleeving.
I mean depends how far you want to go with all this, tbh i would just find and old TCR or something at this point!

I think we could be onto a winner with this silliness. Worth the trouble IMO

What kind of voltage is the groupset

I would guess there's only one cell in the 'battery' (quotes because a battery is technically two or more cells), which would have 3.7-4.2V depending on charge level, but that's most likely stepped up and regulated to 5V, because a lot of electronic stuff is intended to run on that. That's why 5V is the standard voltage on USB.

Can't believe I never checked that while I was going the hack on my Di2...

...I guess there's a chance it could be 12V if that was deemed necessary to run the derailer servos with sufficient oomph, but unlikely... If that was the case, it might mean two or three cells in the battery, with a significantly lower aH rating.

I mean if it's relatively low voltage, theres plenty of small gage electric cables around, and in that case i would just run the cables like traditional cables, you'd get the classic look with similar thickness.

The challenge with running them like regular cables is going the tension. Which might be where friction shifters can help.

Possibly with sugru enclosures for connectors?

Need to get one and play around with it.

Anyway. The group arrived yesterday which is the first piece of actual progress.

I am away for half term next week so will leave all alone til after that.

Loving the brain storming though!

But how much give do the electric cables need ? I have never worked on a electronic groupset but I thought the wires only powered it right ?
Indeed if they do move like regular cables then yeh tension will be a problem...

They don't move. I just want them to have enough tension to not flap around as they "float" above the tube, in the same location in space that a mechanical cable would be.

Doing it like that will at least let you cover up the shifter bosses. Does the battery live in the seat post?

If you run conventional cable under tension and then heat shrink the signal cables to it whilst holding them under mild tension you should have them straight and true.