Home DIY

Just because I've watched too many YouTubes on work benches, I wonder if laminate on ply would be a good shout because it would give you a nice dense solid colour and be hard wearing.

Once you've discounted the cost of primer and top coat I don't think it will be a crazy amount more. Although I freely admit I have no clue on the cost.

What I've read and has worked for me is whatever you use for structural material, top it with thin hardboard, screwed not glued. When it's sufficiently destroyed, replace.

Varnished hardboard feels very lfgss too.

The perfect accompaniment to ugly Italian sofas and expensive lights.

No varnish required, it's a workbench not a sideboard! : )

Hmm , joy of DIY is having the known factor to what you have,, it's a pointless addition but sander sealer + wax gives an excellent finish to MDF edge. the veneer mdf is so incredibly thin (and expensive) that it'll best be used as casually display

Picture from earlier up thread.

Thinking of painting a coat of zinsser peel stop and then permawhite after 2 hours as it is self priming. Seems that what is easily available near me

What do you think?

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I think peel stop is a good idea but personally I can't see any quick way to properly decorate that. I would be thinking sand it off then prime with B.I.N. Aqua and 2 top coats. That's my lowest standard!

Here is a photo taken now.

Have scraped and run a mouse sander with 80 grit paper.

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Painting.

I've previously just slapped a load of white-ish onto walls and had done with but have done a first coat of an F&B in the kitchen at the request of another resident. I understand that brand isn't the easiest to work with so perhaps not best choice but:

How can I clean up dried drips for second coat? Patch sanding with 180g paper take me back to the white undercoat but I can still see the drips. Should I be sanding the entire wall rather than patches? Will there be enough paint loaded on the roller on the second coat to mask the sanded drips? And my understanding with technique is roughly: load up fairly heavily, roll on the tray for a good 30 secs for dense fill. Diagonal first roll up to near the top then down across it to the bottom so you catch the thicker glob of paint on the way back up adjusting pressure as you go. Then feather in towards the cut in brush marks?

Any good videos that can make my walls and ceilings look less shit without paying someone to fix it for me?

Also - cutting in corners. Mine always looks shit. Width of brush? Amount of paint? Length of stroke?

Note: walls are recently plastered and finished apart from one diagonal crack on an old untouched section. Ceilings are a bit patchy but ok.

Interesting, I was worried that having multiple in a row fairly compact might be an issue. Think I’d rather be safe than sorry so think having an additional base might be the way to go, kind of don’t want to be super careful every time I put a bike up or down. Good to know it doesn’t need to go into the struts.

Any thoughts on the thickness of ply to use as the base?

There are two ways:
-Just paint it now, maybe take off all visibly loose stuff with a scraper first, paint with primer (peel stop as primer sounds great, but I am not in the UK so don't know the product) key with fine grit, paint. Have a way nicer door.
-Get rid of ALL the paint, different ways to do that. Then filler, sand, prime, paint, sand, paint, maybe paint a third time.
Have a perfect door.

Always first option here (if I am not just touching up) as we are renting, and I am not investing several days of my life making other people's stuff perfect for free.

dried drips for second coat

I normally get a razor blade or Stanley blade and cut them flush, then block sand. Other wise you can't help but sand the surrounding area more than you want.

cutting in corners

I often have reasonable results with those fancy painting pads. They're a lot faster than brushed Imo. You've got to be diligent about managing the paint build up.

Both great tips - thanks, will give a whirl.

Why not continue the boards in the foreground with locally sourced artisanal boards? :P

You could put some 6mm ply underneath to bring up the level.

Haaaa. Yeah so I’m not sure I fancy a ply floor, I did once, now less so. Need to check your boards still obvs but other option is 18mm ply + glue down cork to get it to 24mm which is the difference between the two.

I think you're general idea for moving the threshold strip is the right direction. Not sure about cork for a utility room. Is there a reason why you can't continue the bathroom tiles to avoid 3 floor surfaces?

Don't have the money for more terrazzo (it was custom) or someone to lay them.

Do you need them to be off the ground? If not, we’ve got ours standing vertically with the front wheels held in Clugs (or whatever they’re called now). It puts almost no stress on the wall. I screwed some small blocks of batten to the floor to keep the back tyres a few inches away from the paintwork.

Mudguards?

Oh FFS I hate using this forum on a phone.

Hello, now typing this again.

Have scraped the doors and frame with a wallpaper scraper and a triangular scraper then sanded with a b&d mouse sander. The 80 grit paper gets clogged so needs a vacuum and then a wire brush to clean the paper. There is still some low areas that none of these hit.

The property belongs to an ex, and she has no clue what she is doing. She is a use 5 pack of poundshop brushes and then throw them away.

She buys paint from b&m and then wonders why the paint needs prep, she doesn't do prep. She paid someone to do this paint work, via air tasker, and has not gone back. What kind of decorator gets the client to get the paint ..

Is this an acceptable?

Seems to be the the flat owner. But not to me and that is an issue

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When it errors out on submit you can just hit the browser back button to recover and resubmit. I have to do that about 50% of the time.

Just had to do it there.

Maybe it’s an on reply bug.