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I got one of these year...

https://www.electricradiatorsdirect.co.uk/ecostrad-cube-iq-wifi-electric-towel-rails-anthracite/

It was prefilled and includes the element which is supplied separately. Perfectly straightforward to remove one of the bottom caps and install it on either side.

Zinsser paint is life. That is all.

How do i describe the fix i need for this previous electrician's fuck up to a new electrician?

I guess i need a new back box that can fit some sort of raised socket bodge and then use the side knockout to run to that other socket?

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Is there a reason that can’t be chased in properly?

did you want an additional socket on the left side in the hole, or just to move it to its new location? Assuming the latter, either:

“I have had a socket moved. The previous electrician used a surface mounted patress box with surface mounted conduit, can you chase out a channel, recess the conduit and replace the surface mounted back box with a normal one please”

Or

“Previous electrician moved a socket for me, using surface mounted conduit because [reason - eg there is something in the wall preventing it being recessed] can you add a blanking plate over the old back box please?”

Given this is a DIY thread on a cycling forum would say if you can fix a puncture you can do either of those things yourself. Doing the first is mildly more complicated but very satisfying. I have no idea if it is something you’re supposed to tell [The Government] about.

That needs to be redone, chased in properly and not going horizontally across the wall.

Any idea what this pipe is in my garden and what I should do with it?

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Probably an old lead water pipe. Leave it or cut it down

Thanks all.

I’m not sure it does need to be redone vertically, but IANAE.

If you don't mind having the conduit it's pretty easy. You do need to have a socket where the hole is for compliance.

A surface mounted pattress should be mountable to the back box that's there, then mount a new socket on top. You can butt the conduit up to the pattress, they have punch outs for that.

It should really be redone from the floor or ceiling vertically to the socket but you can have a horizontal cable between 2 sockets.

How do I refurbish the plywood lining in the back of my van?

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Talk to @sbbohr

Its phenolic faced ply, a factory applied Formica-like film so you can’t just sand and re-oil or varnish. Could just paint it but it’ll get scratched up pretty quick. Vinyl maybe?

Dont bother and buy a piece of rubber from ebay, cut to size and it'll be much better than the ply.

Looking for some tips on a DIY project I’m planning. Basically I want to put up 5 bike hooks on an internal plasterboard wall. I know I’ll need something to brace the wall sufficiently which is directly screwed into the studs. I’ve seen before people just attach horizontal strips of plywood across the wall and then attach the hooks to that. Think this might look a little ugly though.

I was perhaps thinking about covering the wall top to bottom with a plywood board instead, which I think could look good. I’m not quite sure how to deal with the intersection with the skirting board at the bottom though, as well as the right side of the wall is not a right angle so there won’t be a flush join.

Anyone got any smart ideas of going about this? Also worried that the screws I’d need to use to mount the hooks on the plywood would have to be quite short to not go through the back and through the plasterboard, or is that not an issue?

Photo attached, is the wall the bikes are leant against.

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Shed window finished(-ish) after a solid day of kids and chores. Probably should have left the putty until I was less tired, but I just wanted the window in and water tight. You can easily see where I started and where I ended 😂

Forgot how much I hated puttying and that my putty was a bit old and dry. I'd quite like to redo it. But may see if I can brush some linseed oil on the top to and reshape the shit bits smooth it out. Ultimately though it's a shed.

Overall though I'm pleased. It's a million times more solid than it's predecessor and I've learnt lots. Also now very into soudal pro 45p glue.

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Floor question.
Utility room, floor level with floorboards currently but ply is to thin and flexes, also finish and joins are not right.
Best course of action? I’m swinging towards another thin layer of ply then some cork click together planks to level with bathroom floor and add threshold to utility room (prob use one from bathroom if I get it right).

Anything I’ve missed? 24mm raise to match.

Edit: I'm now thinking 18mm ply, then glue down cork tiles which are 4 or 5mm which may bring it to 24mm. May make a test sheet to check height.

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Screw boards down, then maybe ply on top depending on the top flooring.

Have a kicker if you want to fit carpet

i got checker plate rubber matts laser cut to fit our model of van from someone on ebay, stops things sliding round in the back and you can just wash it out easily.

Thanks @sbbohr do you do van lining? 2004 L1H3 twin-sliding door Sprinter, quite a rare variant

Thanks, for what I do being able to slide things is actually a bonus tbh

I know I’ll need something to brace the wall sufficiently which is directly screwed into the studs.

I'm not sure this entirely true. A normal bike weighs, what, 15kg max? Two good anchors should hold that without pulling out the wall. You'd need to be a bit careful when pulling the bike in / out though.

You could give it more strength by increasing the area that's fixed to the plasterboard, i.e. mount the hook to a larger piece of ply, then mount that into the wall to spread the load. The base doesn't have to mounted to studs.

You also need a solution for protecting the wall against the marks tyres will leave. Left long enough they stick to the paint and then pull it off when removed.

I’d go the ugly route and paint to match the wall if you want to minimize the effect. The weight of the hanging bikes will be one thing but wrestling them up and down is where more stress comes in, and over time…