Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • What considerations do I need to take to convert these to track?

    Your link goes nowhere. In general, converting road wheels to track goes like this:
    Front QR - Allen key skewer or bolt-on conversion and you're good to go.
    Front through bolt - if it's 6-bolt disc, you need a lathe and suddenly you have a lovely rear wheel
    Rear cassette hub - forget it, it's cheaper and simpler to get a whole new wheel*

    *24h rims can be rebuilt onto a Novatec track hub if you want the conversion to be permanent, but buying a track wheel and selling the road wheel is the idler's optimum.

  • Thanks - thinking about it, given they are both thru axle centre lock then I would want to rebuild with track hubs (and thanks for the heads up on Novatec).

    Now with working link: https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Vel/85-RSL2-Carbon-Tubeless-Disc-Wheelset/STIG?s=1

  • thanks for the heads up on Novatec

    Now to find 24H front 🙂 They exist, I even have a couple, but it's a deeply unfashionable drilling for any non-disc front hub these days.

    Cycleclinic has Zenith in all the options, twice the price of Novatec for something which is only exactly as good, but it's the easy solution. I'd be bolt-on converting a Brompton front and a 6-bolt MTB front to rear, but that's definitely hard mode.

  • Lacing a 24h rim to a 36h hub is totally doable, BTW

  • Lacing a 24h rim to a 36h hub is totally doable

    If you're after easily available Novatec track fronts, your choices are 20 and 32 🙂

  • Lol

    Or there's Sturmey Archer

  • Silver hubs, silver spokes, black rims - what colour nipples?

    I am inclined to black, they feel more and extension of the rim than the spoke

  • Silver for me, but they're your wheels.

  • HEY!
    I'm so sorry I didn't reply when you posted ages ago about your Ukais. Dunno how I missed the email notification, maybe got all busy or something.

    Martin Arkane sorted me out with something middle deep from Kinlin. Probably for the best as I wanted MSW.

  • No worries!

    Glad you got sorted!

  • 32 hole hub on 24 hole rim with 2X DS and radial NDS.

    I know it works and someone here has done it but I forgot (red Cdale and chrome rims) who.

    How do I measure it out?

  • So what you're doing 16 DS spokes and 8 NDS?

    Someone who understands engineering geometry maths stuff will be along shortly

  • yeah pretty much.

    My assumption is you just measure regular 3x on a 32h rim and use 16DS and radial but only use 8NDS....But measure it all out like you are using a 32h rim.

    I think.

    This is what the internet says and my logic (which sometimes isnt great)

  • I think I'd just use whatever a spoke calc gave for 24 holes ie the rim is where the larger variation in length will happen, the hub is really small beer in terms of hole positions in relation to rim hole, and in fact non-existent on the radial side.

  • headexplodes.gif

  • sure but the spoke calculator will assume there is equal spokes being used on both flanges.

    Whereas we want 16 DS and 8 NDS

  • Someone who understands engineering geometry maths stuff will be along shortly

    We can only hope. I'm just a draughtsman, so I'd draw a picture of it (with electricity these days, but I'm qualified to use a pencil) and measure off the drawing.

  • This. Do the spoke calc for standard 32h with crossing then do the same for radial. Don't mix sides and should be fine (I think)

  • Probably know the answer but thought I’d ask as I don’t mess around with wheel building. Had a Hope rear wheel rebuilt at LBS due to eyelet cracks. It’s been rebuilt on a DT Swiss rim with what looks like the same spokes. Spokes felt pretty loose/flexy on pick up. Ridden approx. 80 miles and it’s now impressively out of true.

    Sounds like the spokes are probs the wrong length and weren’t properly tensioned? Can’t really face taking it back to the same LBS to get a re-do.

  • Might have not been de stressed properly, I've had it happen on some rims worse than others. Take it back and they should redo it for free. If not somebody on here might be able to help you out

  • Thanks, that could be it. Did hear a bit of pinging as I rode away. Will ask them to take a look tomorrow.

  • Sounds like it was poorly built, certainly not up to an even or high enough tension, whether that's because the spokes are too long or the builder was crap, I'd still take it back, at least for a partial refund if there's still room on the spokes or a full if there isn't, as you'll need to get it fully rebuilt again but with new spokes.

  • Hopefully sorted today, v useful to have a couple of LFGSS opinions. Appreciated

  • Anyone got a line on cheap 650b silver rims? For rim break....

  • Would gp5000 str 28c tyres work better on a external rim width of 28 or 32mm? Im looking at Light Bicycle AR465 (28mm external) and Light Bicycle WR40 (32mm external)

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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