Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Have used the deda 70mm and Columbus 60mm but not sure where you'd buy them

https://dedaelementi.com/expander-70

These are the longest I've seen...https://www.velobike.co.nz/products/expansion-plug-extra-long

Think Brooks Cycles stock in the UK.

If it's pretty badly bent but you still want to give it a try I'd rather disassemble the hanger and smack it carefully back to straight-ish position.
If it doesn't snap finish it with the tool or clean the thread with a tap, if needed.

Thanks for the suggestions (and @Benzo). Will have a search for these.

I'm sure this was talked about recently but rust proofing or at least helping out a frame with some rust inside it. WD40 or something else? It's wired up DI2 and I'm not going to strip the bike down, just figured I'd hose the seattube with something to coat the surface. Any point? Anything good that won't eat the Di2?

WD40 or something else?

Something else, specifically Boeshield T9 because that's exactly what it's designed for.

Highly rate Boeshield and I'll recommend ProGold.

Yeah, that was one of the options. Maybe it wasn't here that I read about it. It might've been in a Mason doc or Surly doc I was looking at.

32 hole hub on 24 hole rim with 2X DS and radial NDS.

I know it works and someone here has done it but I forgot (red Cdale and chrome rims) who.

How do I measure it out?

Anyone got a single canti post to fit here please?

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follow up question, i think this is 8mm, is this the only measurement I need?

I've a couple in my spares box you're welcome to have. Drop me a PM.

I'm trying to finish off a build which my limited knowledge is preventing. Stubbornly resisting taking to my LBS!

I've got a Lynskey Cooper CX disc frame with Surly Troll fork. Front and rear brake attachments are side-fitting. Wanting to fit grx400 calipers with 160 rotors. So do I need IS to flat mount adaptor???

Also, how easy is it to set up disc brakes yourself having never done? Assuming I just need some mineral oil and a syringe? Any tips?

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You'd be better off getting some post mount brakes with IS adapters, Shimano MTB brakes are fine with GRX levers but get deore or something with a straight connection, SLX and above have banjo fittings so you'd need new hoses too.

I'm a bit mystified by this.

My rear mech (105, pretty new) was working fine and indexed perfectly until last week.

Now it doesn't want to spring back when I upshift. It will eventually get to about sprocket 9 of 11 but not all the way. If I push it manually it will get into the two smallest sprockets so it's definitely not a limit.

It seems like the spring has either suddenly lost power or is being blocked in some way, maybe by dirt.

It happened after a dirty wet ride 10 days ago. I've just cleaned it properly, which I thought might fix it but it hasn't.

Any ideas?

Edit: so I think it might be the cable as when I feel the bit of cable between the two bits of mech it is tight, until I press it to make it come through.

But maybe the mech spring should be doing that job and overcoming the friction that's bound to be there...?

I could change the cable and see if it fixes it....

Very kind of you! will dm

Ignore me if it’s Di2, but otherwise I’d check the shifter for any frayed cable, and at the other end I’d detach the cable and check for grot in the cable outer.

Why don’t you detach the cable and see if it springs into the smallest cog no issue - oh should have refreshed

New cable?

I could change the cable and see if it fixes it....

It's a good place to start.

Why don’t you detach the cable and see if it springs into the smallest cog no issue - oh should have refreshed

Yes it did.

Yes, I'm changing the back outer first!

Yes, it was a bit dirty in the outer. Inner seemed fine

Changed it and it's a bit better but not entirely wonderful. I probably should have changed the inner as well #lazy

I've had this many times in the past. I almost guarantee it will be a frayed inner cable within the shifter