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• #2777
Yeah it's just wide angle lens distortion. Reality is the stock set-up is front toe out but less dramatic than the photo might indicate.
Combined with some hefty rear toe-in this seems to be how it's done in contemporary buggies regardless of manufacture.
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• #2778
Toe-in rear for stability at speed, to offset toe-out at the front for improved steering (but which also gives reduced straight line stability).
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• #2779
Yeah, toe our has a big effect on cornering stability.
Also, there is some bump steer and the arms are at full droop here, so max toe out as compared to arms level
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• #2780
Can someone help me out with a general rc battery question. I bought two new 5000mah nimh batteries for my FTX outlaw.
It says in the manual for the batteries thst I need to 'do a full charge and discharge precycle to activate the battery'
I've got the pictured charger.
How do I do what the manual says. Sorry if thats a very stupid question
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• #2781
I would simply charge them until they're full (green light on the charger?) and then discharge them by using them. And go from there.
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• #2782
this.
the discharge is simply run them in the rc, better chargers have cycling programs to do this.
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• #2783
Cheers. Will do that
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• #2784
Initially a slow charge at 1amp might do them better. Once they've had a few cycles (and assuming they can take it) hit them with 4amps.
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• #2785
Oops. Too late. Did it on 4 amp as that's what the charger manual seemed to suggest. Il run it this eve and see what happens.
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• #2786
Moved prints etc around in the office, yesterday…
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• #2787
Nice :)
Pondering if it's worth a one hour drive up to Baldock on Wednesday to try out some Astroturf racing.
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• #2788
There’s a nice model shop in Baldock - two birds and one stone.
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• #2789
Anyone got/had a Kamtech Mini? I have no interest in racing, but they look ideal for shoving in a backpack to take when travelling.
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• #2790
Got a link? I'd need some astro specific tyres and have no chance of getting them locally.
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• #2791
Sorry - my message was cryptic! :D
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• #2792
Ta :)
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• #2793
I used to race Mardave Minis back in the day, they're huge fun, but they only have about 2mm ground clearance, so you can't even run them on a car park.
However, you can take a 1/10 slick/semi-slick tyre and glue it to the wheel with contact cement and then flip the front beam axle, so that you have similar ground clearance front and rear, cut away the rear body shell to clearance the rear tyre and you get an absolute pavement rocket! I had a lot of fun with mine modified like that. -
• #2794
I'm sorely tempted to give this a go!
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• #2796
I still say tape up those holes 😁
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• #2797
If you have one already, or the parts, I say go for it.
If not, just buy a ready to go basher from ModelSport or the like, it'll cost about the same amount.
For some reason YouTube keeps recommending Mardave set up videos and builds and I can't help laughing at how cheap the spares are. -
• #2798
Stotford outdoor Astro. You can break stuff here if you bin it hard!
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• #2799
Oh it’s all dirt cheap!
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• #2800
You went then! How was it?
I see this quite a lot but I usually assume it’s the wide lens and image correction on camera phones skewing the picture. Same at the rear - does the car really have that much positive camber even at full droop?